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Inte större boj än att den dras ner vid hård belastning, dvs bojen är ryckdämparen. Bojtenen är kort på ovansidan och lång på undersidan. Ovan riskerar att slå i båten. Under lång, så att bojen inte välter. Barlastad med en tung axel i en ihopsmält slang. Fast förtöjningslina som aldrig kan kroka ur. Dränerad, madrasserad, fastskruvad korg för förtöjningslina. Lina ner till botten isf rostande kätting. På grunt vatten dämpar inte kättingen nämnvärt. Min barlast i änden av tenen ger förmodligen mer. Dessutom räcker det med bojens dämpning när den dras ner under vattnet. Garnblåsa håller upp linan från botten, så att varken lina eller botten skadas (miljövänligt). Den ger lagom lyftkraft, de speciella ringformade flytkroppar som säljs för ändamålet har för stor lyftkraft. Än så länge har jag en grov kätting nere i dyn som jag schacklar i. När öglan i stenen har rostat bort (håller i ca 30 år, det har gått 23 år), så blir det ingen ny kätting på botten. Utan antingen en P-ring som jag sätter linan i eller SXK:s lösning med en genomborrad sten, med en slang genom hålet och en stor knut på linan där den kommer ut ur sten och slang under stenen. Slangen skall sticka upp ur stenen typ 1 meter så att man slipper ha flytkropp på linan. Man skall undvika metall under vattnet och inte blanda metaller.
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1. Remove the old caulking. We use a special tool from @teakdeckingsystems. 2. If your deck is both screwed and glued, considwe removing the screws. We chose to remove the screws since they only created a possibility for water to enter the construction. 3. Fill out every screw hole with epoxy. During the renovation, we learned it would be a good idea to fill the holes with epoxy as soon as you remove the screws to ensure you seal every single hole. 4. Route between all the teak strips. We routed all the way to the gel coat to have as much wood to work with as possible. We used a fine cutter where the caulking was across the grain. 5. Seam sanding. It helps remove the remaining caulking and gives the teak a fresh bonding surface. 6. Masking the teak strips. We chose to mask the wood to reduce the sanding process later on because we knew the teak wasn’t very thick. 7. Cleaning off with acetone. This helps remove dust and gives the caulking the best conditions to adhere to the wood and cure. 8. Start caulking. We used an air compressor caulking gun. It makes the process easier for large surfaces that need caulking - we used SIS 440 from @teakdeckingsystems. We also used a 3D-printed applicator for the caulk head, which minimizes the amount of caulking used. I could only find it on @hfindustrimarineaps website. 9. “Spoon” caulk further into the seams. We used a flexible putty knife to smoothing the caulking. 10. Pull off the masking. While removing the tape, we used scissors to cut just before the area where it hadn’t been caulked yet. 11. Remove the top of the caulking. We used a sharp stanley knife. We did this to minimize sanding, just as we did with masking. 12. Sanding with grit 80. We used the fine cutter’s sanding head for all the edges and an orbital sander for the larger areas. Side note: Sanding with grit 40. We believe the best way is to sand before routing to even out the wood. Unfortunately, we had many places where the wood was so worn out that it wouldn’t have been possible to follow the old tracks with the router after sanding. #diy #sailing #sailingdiy #teak #teakdeck #sailingdenmark #boatwork #shortoftheday