1. Remove the old caulking. We use a special tool from @teakdeckingsystems. 2. If your deck is both screwed and glued, considwe removing the screws. We chose to remove the screws since they only created a possibility for water to enter the construction. 3. Fill out every screw hole with epoxy. During the renovation, we learned it would be a good idea to fill the holes with epoxy as soon as you remove the screws to ensure you seal every single hole. 4. Route between all the teak strips. We routed all the way to the gel coat to have as much wood to work with as possible. We used a fine cutter where the caulking was across the grain. 5. Seam sanding. It helps remove the remaining caulking and gives the teak a fresh bonding surface. 6. Masking the teak strips. We chose to mask the wood to reduce the sanding process later on because we knew the teak wasn’t very thick. 7. Cleaning off with acetone. This helps remove dust and gives the caulking the best conditions to adhere to the wood and cure. 8. Start caulking. We used an air compressor caulking gun. It makes the process easier for large surfaces that need caulking - we used SIS 440 from @teakdeckingsystems. We also used a 3D-printed applicator for the caulk head, which minimizes the amount of caulking used. I could only find it on @hfindustrimarineaps website. 9. “Spoon” caulk further into the seams. We used a flexible putty knife to smoothing the caulking. 10. Pull off the masking. While removing the tape, we used scissors to cut just before the area where it hadn’t been caulked yet. 11. Remove the top of the caulking. We used a sharp stanley knife. We did this to minimize sanding, just as we did with masking. 12. Sanding with grit 80. We used the fine cutter’s sanding head for all the edges and an orbital sander for the larger areas. Side note: Sanding with grit 40. We believe the best way is to sand before routing to even out the wood. Unfortunately, we had many places where the wood was so worn out that it wouldn’t have been possible to follow the old tracks with the router after sanding. #diy #sailing #sailingdiy #teak #teakdeck #sailingdenmark #boatwork #shortoftheday

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#Songpop interactive music app on openR link. 120,000 songs, 5 players: a #Renault exclusive

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‘No prizes for second, and we’re here to win.’ James Mayo, co-skipper on the 100-footer Master Lock Comanche, shares his excitement ahead of the Rolex Sydney Hobart Yacht Race. With over 30 years since his last Hobart, he’s back—racing alongside close mates and a trusted crew, backed by North Sails. ‘When it gets heinous out there, it’s trust in your team—and the sails—that gets you to the finish line.’ https://www.northsails.com/ #North3Di #RolexSydneyHobart #RSHYR #MasterLockComanche #supermaxi 🎥 Bow Caddy / Atila Madrona

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The idea behind it is that it hangs onto thin veneers that may otherwise flutter against the tablesaw blade as it reaches the end of the cut. There are other methods for cutting thin veneers which you can explore on YouTube. I find this helpful because it hangs onto the finished veneer as I tend to the billet it just came off. It is also helpful in that it is a one-fence-setting system, unlike cutting veneers off the outboard face of the blade. Of course a fresh push stick is a good idea as is a zero clearance throat plate in your saw. For most standard table saws, that is a simple project in itself. I have a pattern that allows me to make new ones easily. Subject for another video. The extended backboard allows me to fasten this jig to my Jim Tolpin style fence extension. Detail of that can be found in Jim Tolpin’s Tablesaw Magic book. A worthwhile read in its own right. You could eliminate the backboard and recess the end caps allowing f-body clamps to reach in and hold it to any tablesaw fence. I’ll leave other solutions to your own innovation. I use this jig with a Fein shop vac which has a volume control. I was surprised how low I had to turn it down to prevent the stock from locking itself firmly onto the fence, preventing me from feeding it through the blade. You may have to increase the number of saw kerfs through the front of the fence until you find the sweet spot for your vacuum. I would do it one kerf at a time. Note that the kerfs pass all the way through the fence face such that they are exposed on the ends. That is to allow the air to pass behind the stock. I hope this is useful to some of you. Happy wood butchering folks.My website: https://www.nomadboatbuilding.com Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/nomadboatbuilding/ It's not about the money but living isn't free... Products featured in this video: Buy some merch: https://www.nomadboatbuilding.com/shop/ Support these videos with monthly or annual pledges at Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/nomadboatbuilding Or make a one time donation: https://www.paypal.com/paypalme/nomadboatbuilding

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