Welcome aboard to the our video site for sailors. We are being constantly blasted by scammers and pirates, so registration is invite only
contact@sailorsahoy.com with "Invite". No spam, no newsletters. Just a free account
Kratke hlaÄe Stvoriti

1. Remove the old caulking. We use a special tool from @teakdeckingsystems. 2. If your deck is both screwed and glued, considwe removing the screws. We chose to remove the screws since they only created a possibility for water to enter the construction. 3. Fill out every screw hole with epoxy. During the renovation, we learned it would be a good idea to fill the holes with epoxy as soon as you remove the screws to ensure you seal every single hole. 4. Route between all the teak strips. We routed all the way to the gel coat to have as much wood to work with as possible. We used a fine cutter where the caulking was across the grain. 5. Seam sanding. It helps remove the remaining caulking and gives the teak a fresh bonding surface. 6. Masking the teak strips. We chose to mask the wood to reduce the sanding process later on because we knew the teak wasnât very thick. 7. Cleaning off with acetone. This helps remove dust and gives the caulking the best conditions to adhere to the wood and cure. 8. Start caulking. We used an air compressor caulking gun. It makes the process easier for large surfaces that need caulking - we used SIS 440 from @teakdeckingsystems. We also used a 3D-printed applicator for the caulk head, which minimizes the amount of caulking used. I could only find it on @hfindustrimarineaps website. 9. âSpoonâ caulk further into the seams. We used a flexible putty knife to smoothing the caulking. 10. Pull off the masking. While removing the tape, we used scissors to cut just before the area where it hadnât been caulked yet. 11. Remove the top of the caulking. We used a sharp stanley knife. We did this to minimize sanding, just as we did with masking. 12. Sanding with grit 80. We used the fine cutterâs sanding head for all the edges and an orbital sander for the larger areas. Side note: Sanding with grit 40. We believe the best way is to sand before routing to even out the wood. Unfortunately, we had many places where the wood was so worn out that it wouldnât have been possible to follow the old tracks with the router after sanding. #diy #sailing #sailingdiy #teak #teakdeck #sailingdenmark #boatwork #shortoftheday



The wooden frame to lift the engine with must be very stable. Test with your own body that it's completly stable in all directions. Used double lifting devices to make the engine to move sidewards. Used plywood and soft material to protect the opening of the entrance to the boat. Shifted to a support over the entrance to the boat to get the engine into the thunnel. It was surpricing easy to get the engine in the right position. Checked with feeler gaugh that it was perfect aligned with the straight axis. The engine supports are flat and the the adjustment plates are under the supports. Those had not been changed when the engine was lifted out of the boat. As the alignment was absolutely perfect, I do not expect to even have to check when the boat comes into water.