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1. Remove the old caulking. We use a special tool from @teakdeckingsystems. 2. If your deck is both screwed and glued, considwe removing the screws. We chose to remove the screws since they only created a possibility for water to enter the construction. 3. Fill out every screw hole with epoxy. During the renovation, we learned it would be a good idea to fill the holes with epoxy as soon as you remove the screws to ensure you seal every single hole. 4. Route between all the teak strips. We routed all the way to the gel coat to have as much wood to work with as possible. We used a fine cutter where the caulking was across the grain. 5. Seam sanding. It helps remove the remaining caulking and gives the teak a fresh bonding surface. 6. Masking the teak strips. We chose to mask the wood to reduce the sanding process later on because we knew the teak wasn’t very thick. 7. Cleaning off with acetone. This helps remove dust and gives the caulking the best conditions to adhere to the wood and cure. 8. Start caulking. We used an air compressor caulking gun. It makes the process easier for large surfaces that need caulking - we used SIS 440 from @teakdeckingsystems. We also used a 3D-printed applicator for the caulk head, which minimizes the amount of caulking used. I could only find it on @hfindustrimarineaps website. 9. “Spoon” caulk further into the seams. We used a flexible putty knife to smoothing the caulking. 10. Pull off the masking. While removing the tape, we used scissors to cut just before the area where it hadn’t been caulked yet. 11. Remove the top of the caulking. We used a sharp stanley knife. We did this to minimize sanding, just as we did with masking. 12. Sanding with grit 80. We used the fine cutter’s sanding head for all the edges and an orbital sander for the larger areas. Side note: Sanding with grit 40. We believe the best way is to sand before routing to even out the wood. Unfortunately, we had many places where the wood was so worn out that it wouldn’t have been possible to follow the old tracks with the router after sanding. #diy #sailing #sailingdiy #teak #teakdeck #sailingdenmark #boatwork #shortoftheday

The two halves of the 16x30 wind tunnel are joined. As in boat building, the composite team built a mold from the precision cut frames, and laid in the composite layers. In this particular case, the parts were made in quadrants from male molds which create the inner surface of the wind tunnels. To finish the inner surface, the inside of the tunnels includes a layer or gelcoat. When assembled the wind tunnel will be 30’ long with a 16’ diameter. This tunnel is destined for a major academic research facility on the East coast of the United States. Among its many aerodynamics functions, the tunnel will be used to support aerospace research projects. Lyman Morse Technologies, LLC regularly executes non-marine projects.

El Lagoon 42 ha sido construido con características innovadoras que equilibran una sutil armonía entre rendimiento y comodidad. Nacido de la experiencia de Lagoon Catamarans para desarrollar un enfoque de crucero único, el Lagoon 42 revela volúmenes notables para interactuar en todas las áreas. Con hasta 12 invitados, disfrute de una agradable cabina abierta al mar y la comodidad de un salón excepcional. Descubre el Lagoon 42 Catamarán: https://catamaransbcn.com/lagoon-42/