There's a lot happening beyond the workbench in this episode. I'm getting a small boatbuilding club started here in Victoria, thinking about our first group build, exploring traditional boatbuilding methods from overseas, and developing a few ideas for future projects. The club is inspired in part by the Oarlock and Sail boatbuilding group in Vancouver, BC. We've started with a small handful of members and are working out how to share workshop space and build boats together. Our first project will likely be a small Forest and Stream skiff, based on a design published in 1890. I also take a look at a couple of traditional boatbuilding methods I've been watching online, including some ingenious ways of using available materials to build boats in Bangladesh and Indonesia. Seeing how other builders approach the same basic problems is a great source of ideas. On the design side, I've been getting interested in model building again. I'm considering using a planked model to develop a small, lightweight rowing boat that would be ideal for a local outing my wife and I enjoy: paddling up an inlet for coffee. There's also an update on the upcoming lapstrake course, a possible small run of Nomad workshop aprons, an idea for a miniature brass bevel square, and a new boatbuilding project-log website that may be useful for our club. And finally, I'm putting together a Q&A video. If you have questions about wooden boatbuilding, tools, techniques, design, or my approach to a particular problem, send them along. **Useful links** - Website: https://nomadboatbuilding.com/ - Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/nomadboatbuilding - Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/nomadboatbuilding/ - Boatbuilding Log: https://boatbuildlog.com/ The Forest and Stream skiff model plans are available through Patreon at any level. At the $5 and up level, I'll also mail you a paper set of plans and a sticker. They're also available through my website. The January lapstrake course is full. If you're interested in a future course, contact the Cowichan Bay Maritime Centre and ask to be added to their mailing list. https://www.classicboats.org/ **A couple of questions for you:** Would you be interested in a Nomad workshop apron? And what would you consider a reasonable price for one? I'm also curious whether a small brass bevel square for model making would be useful. If there's a boatbuilding question you'd like me to cover in a future Q&A, leave it in the comments, send me an email, or get in touch through Instagram. Thanks for watching, and thanks for supporting the work. 0:00 A workshop update 0:12 Starting a boatbuilding club in Victoria 1:34 Finding a place for the club to build 2:40 Choosing our first group project 2:47 The 1890 Forest and Stream skiff 3:24 Building a scale model from the plans 4:18 Taking the design to full size 5:07 Lapstrake course update 5:42 Inspiration from traditional boatbuilders 6:21 A clever method of building a flat-bottom boat 7:19 Using metal for the sides 8:03 Another traditional boatbuilding method 9:30 Judging the Victoria Classic Boat Show 10:17 Model making as a way to develop boat lines 10:47 Designing a boat for a local outing 12:19 Possible Nomad workshop aprons 13:53 A miniature bevel square for model making 14:44 BoatbuildingLog.com 16:03 A project log for the boatbuilding club 17:08 Send me your boatbuilding questions 17:57 Supporting Nomad Boat Building

Howdy folks! Welcome back to Nomad Boat Building. My name is Mark Reuten, and we're picking up where we left off on the Poulsbo Boat Project. With the inwales and thwart risers glued up, it's time to fair them out and get ready for planking. There's a lot of material to remove, some tricky twists to follow, and a few places where the grain isn't making life easy. In this episode, I show how I use a batten to establish fair lines across the moulds, then work through the rough shaping with a slick before switching to hand planes and a longboard for finer adjustments. I'll also show why checking for bumps and hollows with a batten is an important final step. Along the way, we take a closer look at Alaskan yellow cedar, work around some awkward grain, and discuss a transom layout issue that I may have to solve as the build progresses. The original Poulsbo boat was a sport fishing boat built by Ronald Young in Washington using traditional carvel plank construction. This version uses modern cedar-strip construction, with fibreglass inside and out. Join me on Patreon to help support the channel and these boatbuilding videos: https://www.patreon.com/nomadboatbuilding Website: https://nomadboatbuilding.com/ Instagram: @nomadboatbuilding Watch the Poulsbo Boat Project playlist: https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLnOoJJKdbR4JZFfEMWhXjloa0LhCp0GPI Thanks for watching. With the structure faired, we're getting closer to the cedar-strip planking stage! 0:00 Why a mockup and careful planning matter 0:16 Getting ready to fair the inwales and thwart risers 0:50 The extra inwale filler and transom layout issue 3:46 Establishing the fairing lines 4:48 Cleaning up the glue squeeze-out 5:23 Using a batten to mark the bevel 6:46 Marking the bottom edge 9:33 Using a slick to remove material 11:28 Working close to the line 12:48 Switching to a smoothing plane 14:03 A step-by-step approach to fairing 14:43 Creating a continuous rolling bevel 16:16 Working with Alaskan yellow cedar 17:28 Fine planing near the finished line 18:32 Smoothing with a longboard 19:28 Preparing the thwart riser for removal 20:20 Fairing the bottom edge 21:12 Switching from the slick to a plane 21:58 Checking the surface for humps 23:31 Checking the fairing with a batten 24:39 Wrapping up for the day 25:14 Getting ready to start planking

Howdy folks! Welcome back to Nomad Boat Building. My name is Mark Reuten, and we're picking up where we left off on the Poulsbo Boat Project. The inwales and thwart risers are glued up, but there's one more piece to fit before we can fair everything and get on with planking. The shape of the transom means I need to add extra material to one inwale, and that calls for some careful tapering and compound bevels. In this episode, I work through the fit, demonstrate my technique for cutting compound bevels by hand, and make a quick mockup to test how much material I can remove before shaping the real piece. A little experimentation up front can save a lot of awkward work on the boat. I also fit and glue the final filler piece using thickened epoxy and polymer nails. With the inwales and thwart risers complete, we're getting closer to fairing the structure and starting the cedar-strip planking. The original Poulsbo boat was a sport fishing boat built by Roland Young in Washington using traditional carvel plank construction. This version is being built with cedar-strip construction and fibreglass inside and out. Join me on Patreon to help support the channel and these boatbuilding videos: https://www.patreon.com/nomadboatbuilding Website: https://nomadboatbuilding.com/ Instagram: @nomadboatbuilding Watch the Poulsbo Boat Project playlist: https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLnOoJJKdbR4JZFfEMWhXjloa0LhCp0GPI Chapters are listed below. Thanks for watching, and I'll see you in the next episode! 0:00 Why a quick mockup is worth doing 0:21 The Poulsbo Boat Project 0:39 Adding the final inwale filler 3:15 Testing the fit and bend 5:00 Marking and cutting the bevels 7:04 How to cut compound bevels by hand 10:35 Marking the taper for the bandsaw 11:49 Making a mockup before cutting the real part 14:01 Working through the test cuts 16:06 When everything seems to fight you 17:25 Checking the mockup and refining the cut 19:00 Why the mockup saves time and effort 20:16 Shaping the taper with a power planer 21:04 Supporting the channel 22:14 Gluing in the filler piece 22:42 Splitting the filler to make it bend 23:31 Using polymer nails to tack the piece 25:45 Checking the fit 25:56 Inwales and thwart risers complete

Hey folks, welcome to Nomad Boat Building. We're picking up where we left off on the Poulsbo Boat Project. In the last episode, I fitted and steam bent the longitudinal members that will become the inwales and thwart risers. This time, it's time to glue everything up. I'm using epoxy to laminate the inwales and thwart risers into strong, rigid structures that will become an important part of the boat. I'll show you how I prepare the surfaces, use two-part bonding, choose between different types of clamps, and use polymer nails to hold the laminations in position while the epoxy cures. I'm using WEST SYSTEM 105 Resin with 205 Fast Hardener for this glue-up. The two-part bonding technique involves wetting out the wood with unthickened epoxy first, followed by thickened epoxy to create the structural joint. The Poulsbo Boat is a modern cedar-strip version of a 1950s-era sport fishing boat originally built by Roland Young in the Poulsbo, Washington area. The original was built using traditional carvel plank construction; this version is being built with cedar strip construction and fibreglassed inside and out. There is one more tricky piece to add before this stage is finished, and I'll tackle that in the next episode. Get Raptor polymer nails here: https://raptornails.com/ Canadian source For Raptor products here: https://woodworkerspecialties.com/product/raptor-15-18-gauge-polymer-composite-nails/?sfw=pass1789999248 SUPPORT THE CHANNEL Join me on Patreon — your support helps make these boatbuilding videos possible. WEBSITE nomadboatbuilding.com INSTAGRAM @nomadboatbuilding POULSBO BOAT PROJECT PLAYLIST: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLnOoJJKdbR4JZFfEMWhXjloa0LhCp0GPI Follow the complete build as the boat takes shape, from the building jig and backbone through planking, fibreglassing and finishing. CHAPTERS 0:00 Introduction 0:31 Time to glue up 0:39 Preparing the blocking 1:02 Protecting the moulds 1:27 Why I'm willing to cut the moulds out 2:04 Preparing the epoxy surfaces 2:27 WEST SYSTEM 105/205 epoxy 3:00 Two-part bonding explained 4:18 Epoxy working time 5:06 Fine-tuning the clamps 5:53 Choosing the right clamps 6:41 Green state after the first glue-up 7:06 Starting the inwale lamination 7:22 Using polymer nails 9:00 Fitting the inwale 10:29 Mixing the epoxy 11:36 Wetting out the Douglas-fir 12:01 Preventing epoxy starvation 12:51 Why I like heavily laminated shears 13:24 A design problem I'll reveal later 14:21 Thickening the epoxy 14:48 Planning the four-stage glue-up 16:07 Adding alignment blocks 17:09 Getting the first lamination in place 18:33 Using polymer nails 20:00 Starting the second layer 21:26 Getting systematic with the clamps 22:58 Cleaning up the squeeze-out 23:34 Epoxy on a big boat 25:04 The inwales and thwart risers are glued up 25:13 What's coming next #NomadBoatBuilding #PoulsboBoat #BoatBuilding #WoodenBoat #Woodworking #CedarStripBoat #Epoxy #WESTSYSTEM #BoatbuildingTips #WoodenBoatBuilding

My website: https://www.nomadboatbuilding.com Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/nomadboatbuilding/ It's not about the money but living isn't free... Here are some ways you can support this channel. Buy some merch: https://www.nomadboatbuilding.com/shop/ Support these videos with monthly or annual pledges at Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/nomadboatbuilding Or make a one time donation: https://www.paypal.com/paypalme/nomadboatbuilding

Hey folks, welcome to Nomad Boat Building. I'm Mark Reuten, and we're picking up where we left off on the Poulsbo Boat Project. This week I'm getting the boat ready for planking by bending and fitting the inwales and thwart risers. There's a fair bit of tricky work involved here, especially around the stem and transom where the angles compound and there's a lot of shape going on. I’ll show you how I work out those angles using simple battens and templates, how I deal with steaming some pretty stubborn Douglas-fir, and how I make adjustments when things don't quite fit the first time. There are a few mistakes along the way too — which is pretty normal in a boat shop. The Poulsbo Boat is a modern cedar-strip version of a 1950s-era sport fishing boat originally built in Poulsbo, Washington by Roland Young using traditional carvel construction. I'm building this version with cedar strip construction, fibreglassed inside and out. The inwales and thwart risers will eventually be laminated into rigid longitudinal structures, but for now they're being bent into position so I can establish the shape before planking. If you're interested in wooden boat building, cedar-strip construction, steam bending, woodworking, and the practical problem-solving that goes into building a boat, follow along as this project takes shape. SUPPORT THE CHANNEL Join me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/nomadboatbuilding Your support helps keep these boatbuilding videos coming. WEBSITE https://nomadboatbuilding.com/ INSTAGRAM @nomadboatbuilding WATCH THE FULL POULSBO BOAT SERIES https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLnOoJJKdbR4JZFfEMWhXjloa0LhCp0GPI&si=wVjR0gySMlqsx2jw New episodes follow the build from the backbone and moulds through planking, fibreglassing, interior work and eventually finishing the boat. CHAPTERS 0:00 Introduction 0:21 Week eight: getting back to work 0:30 Troubleshooting the stem bevel 1:01 Using plywood to check complex bevels 2:01 Preparing the backbone for planking 3:21 Installing the inwales before planking 4:18 Laminating the inwales in place 5:12 Working out the inwale angles 7:06 Solving the compound angle 8:16 Fitting the first inwale 8:47 Steam bending the inwales 11:38 Bending Douglas-fir 12:34 Cutting the compound mitres 16:23 Steaming the second bend 18:40 Fitting and adjusting the inwale 20:30 Steam bending Douglas-fir 23:08 Correcting the inwale angle 23:37 Transferring the transom angles 26:34 Adjusting the fit 27:37 Preparing the thwart risers 30:46 Correcting the mould reductions 34:28 Setting the laminations in place 35:47 Ready for lamination 36:03 Next episode #NomadBoatBuilding #PoulsboBoat #BoatBuilding #WoodenBoat #WoodenBoatBuilding #CedarStripBoat #StripBuiltBoat #SteamBending #Woodworking #Boatbuilding

Sign up for the Traditional Lapstrake course here: Cowichan Bay Maritime Center: https://www.classicboats.org/build-a-tyee-rowboat My website: https://www.nomadboatbuilding.com Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/nomadboatbuilding/ It's not about the money but living isn't free... Here are some ways you can support this channel. Buy some merch: https://www.nomadboatbuilding.com/shop/ Support these videos with monthly or annual pledges at Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/nomadboatbuilding Or make a one time donation: https://www.paypal.com/paypalme/nomadboatbuilding

Howdy folks! I'm Mark Reuten from Nomad Boat Building. In this episode of the Poulsbo Boat Project, I'm tackling one of the most common frustrations in woodworking: thickness planer snipe. I explain why snipe happens, why it isn't always practical to eliminate with elaborate machine setups, and several simple shop techniques I use to prevent it when milling boat parts. We'll cover lifting the stock during the cut, feeding boards diagonally, using sacrificial battens, and building a simple planer sled for short or thin workpieces. These are practical methods that work well in a real boat shop without requiring expensive modifications to your planer. If you're building boats, woodworking in a small shop, or simply trying to get cleaner results from your thickness planer, I hope you'll find a few useful ideas here. If you'd like to help support these videos, consider joining me on Patreon: Join me on Patreon https://www.patreon.com/nomadboatbuilding Website https://nomadboatbuilding.com/ Chapters 00:00 Why thickness planer snipe happens 00:48 Why extension tables aren't always practical 01:32 Planning around snipe with extra material 02:17 Technique 1: Lift the board during the cut 02:55 Technique 2: Feed the board diagonally 03:30 Technique 3: Sacrificial battens 04:47 Technique 4: A simple planer sled 05:57 Final thoughts #BoatBuilding #Woodworking #ThicknessPlaner #WoodworkingTips #NomadBoatBuilding #PoulsboBoat #PlanerSnipe #WorkshopTips

Fairing a wooden boat hull isn't always straightforward. Here's one lesson that saved me from removing material I couldn't put back. Watch the full episode on Nomad Boat Building for the complete Poulsbo Boat Project. #BoatBuilding #Woodworking #WoodenBoat #NomadBoatBuilding

Howdy folks! Welcome back to Nomad Boat Building. I'm Mark Reuten, and this video is part of the Poulsbo Boat Project, where I'm building a modern version of a 1950s Poulsbo sport fishing boat using cedar strip construction with fibreglass inside and out. This episode is all about fairing the backbone, moulds and stem. What looked like a simple job quickly turned into one of the more frustrating parts of the build as unexpected hull shapes had me questioning everything. Rather than rushing ahead, I slowed down, worked through the problem methodically, and eventually found a fair solution. Along the way I demonstrate how I use full-length battens, fair complex hull shapes, work around difficult twists at the bow, and shape the stem without removing too much material. If you've ever doubted your layout or wondered whether the plans or your workmanship were wrong, this episode is for you. Whether you're building a wooden boat, restoring one, or simply enjoy traditional craftsmanship and woodworking, I hope you'll find something useful here. ► Join me on Patreon https://www.patreon.com/nomadboatbuilding ► Website https://nomadboatbuilding.com/ Watch the complete Poulsbo Boat Project playlist: https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLnOoJJKdbR4JZFfEMWhXjloa0LhCp0GPI&si=wVjR0gySMlqsx2jw New episodes follow the complete build from lofting through launch. Chapters 00:00 Introduction 00:32 Fairing frustrations 02:52 Solving the bow twist 04:26 Removing the mould notches 06:16 Why full-length battens matter 09:31 Fairing the transom 10:44 Fairing the stem 13:11 Avoiding costly mistakes 14:30 The challenge of the forefoot 15:44 Wrap up #BoatBuilding #WoodenBoat #PoulsboBoat #NomadBoatBuilding #Woodworking #TraditionalBoatBuilding #CedarStripBoat #BoatRestoration

Howdy folks! Welcome back to Nomad Boat Building. My name is Mark Reuten, and this video is part of the Poulsbo Boat Project, where I'm building a modern version of a 1950s-era Poulsbo sport fishing boat originally designed and built by Roland Young of Poulsbo Washington, USA. In this episode, I begin fairing the backbone and molds in preparation for planking. Along the way I troubleshoot a few issues, sharpen my hand planes, and work through the process of creating smooth, fair surfaces that will ultimately define the shape of the hull. Fairing is one of the most important steps in boatbuilding. Taking the time to get the backbone, stem, transom, and molds working together as one continuous surface pays dividends throughout the rest of the build. If you enjoy traditional craftsmanship, wooden boats, woodworking, and practical problem solving in the boat shop, I think you'll enjoy this series. Join me on Patreon https://www.patreon.com/nomadboatbuilding Website https://nomadboatbuilding.com/ Poulsbo Boat Project Playlist https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLnOoJJKdbR4JZFfEMWhXjloa0LhCp0GPI&si=wVjR0gySMlqsx2jw New episodes follow the entire build from lofting through launch. CHAPTERS 00:00 Fairing the hull begins 00:35 Checking molds for fairness 01:56 Boatbuilding mistakes and problem solving 03:47 Investigating mold alignment issues 04:18 Fairing the transom and keelson 05:27 The plywood garboard plan 07:19 Resetting the keelson centerline 09:46 Fairing techniques and working height 12:38 Sharpening a hand plane iron 18:24 Waxing the plane sole 18:36 Fairing forward toward the stem 19:05 The most difficult bevel on the boat 21:09 Next steps in the build

In this clip from the Poulsbo Boat Project, I show a practical approach to freehand chisel or plane blade sharpening Watch the full build series here: https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLnOoJJKdbR4JZFfEMWhXjloa0LhCp0GPI&si=wVjR0gySMlqsx2jw Join me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/nomadboatbuilding Website: https://nomadboatbuilding.com/ #BoatBuilding #Woodworking #WoodenBoat #NomadBoatBuilding

Ever lose track of your epoxy pumps and wonder if the batch is still good? In this clip, I take a look at the West System 306 Metering Pump and explain why it's become one of my favourite tools for larger epoxy jobs. Sponsored by West System Epoxy https://www.westsystem.com/ Join me on Patreon https://www.patreon.com/nomadboatbuilding Website https://nomadboatbuilding.com/

Howdy folks. Welcome back to Nomad Boat Building. My name is Mark Reuten, and today I'm taking a close look at West System's 306 Metering Pump and putting it through its paces in a real boat shop environment. Accurately measuring epoxy is one of the most important parts of achieving reliable results, but it's also one of the easiest places to make mistakes. In this video I'll show you how the 306 Metering Pump works, how to switch it between hardener ratios, how to prime and verify the system, and why it has become one of my favourite shop tools for larger epoxy jobs. This video is part of my West System Epoxy series. Sponsored by West System Epoxy https://www.westsystem.com/ West System Epoxy Playlist: https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLnOoJJKdbR4Lk9QaAMWkjBHCzF1Nto2Um&si=K0RhBAGEF4CW7TuT If you're interested in wooden boat building, epoxy techniques, woodworking, and practical shop tips, you'll find plenty more here on the channel. Join me on Patreon https://www.patreon.com/nomadboatbuilding Website https://nomadboatbuilding.com/ Chapters 00:00 Introduction — Why measuring epoxy accurately matters 00:43 Why West System pumps changed boatbuilding 01:41 Introducing the 306 Metering Pump 02:20 Switching between 5:1 and 3:1 systems 02:53 Understanding the linkage mechanism 03:40 Reconfiguring the pump step-by-step 05:20 Filling reservoirs and priming the system 07:39 Filling the resin reservoir 09:13 Verifying pump ratios by weight 10:42 Returning resin and hardener to the reservoirs 10:59 Troubleshooting check valves 11:52 First real-world test on the boat hull 13:04 Mixing epoxy with a drill-powered mixer 14:37 Real-world impressions after using the pump 15:40 Why West System changed wooden boat building 16:04 Final thoughts and sponsor thanks

Howdy folks! Welcome back to Nomad Boat Building. My name is Mark Reuten. In this video, I walk through the basics of reading traditional boat plans. We look at construction drawings, lines plans, stations, waterlines, buttock lines, diagonals, table of offsets, stem profiles, and how all of that information is used to loft a boat full size. Using the plans for a historic Rushton canoe as an example, I explain what information is essential for building a boat, how designers communicate hull shape, and why a good set of drawings is worth every penny. Whether you're new to wooden boatbuilding, curious about lofting, or trying to make sense of a set of boat plans, this video will help demystify the process. Join me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/nomadboatbuilding Website: https://nomadboatbuilding.com/ Watch more boatbuilding videos here: https://www.youtube.com/@NomadBoatbuilding CHAPTERS 00:00 Why boat plans look confusing at first 00:11 Introduction 00:18 Historic Rushton canoe plans overview 00:44 Understanding construction drawings 01:54 Scantlings and construction details 02:45 Why the lines plan matters most 03:23 Profile, body plan and half breadths explained 03:41 Diagonals, waterlines and buttock lines 04:27 Understanding the table of offsets 05:23 Stem profile drawings 05:31 Reading plan notes and dimensions 05:58 Outside planking vs mold reductions 06:42 Lofting the boat full size 07:01 Using a bevel board 08:13 Creating stem molds and bevels 08:48 Building a boat from offsets alone 09:06 Plank width information 09:40 Why quality plans are worth buying 10:24 Different plans for different boat types 10:40 Further lofting resources 10:45 Closing thoughts

Using a traditional shipwright's slick to rough bevel the keelson and shape the stem on my Poulsbo Boat Project. Fast, efficient, and surprisingly satisfying. Full video on Nomad Boat Building. Join me on Patreon https://www.patreon.com/nomadboatbuilding My Website: https://nomadboatbuilding.com/ #BoatBuilding #Woodworking #WoodenBoat #NomadBoatBuilding #Shipwright #PoulsboBoat

Howdy folks! Welcome back to Nomad Boat Building. My name is Mark Reuten. We're back working on the Poulsbo Boat Project. Before final assembly of the backbone, I tackle a few important jobs: assembling the transom and transom knee, rough beveling the keelson, and laying out and shaping the stem bevels. The Poulsbo Boat was a popular sport fishing boat built in Poulsbo, Washington during the 1950s and 60s by Roland Young using traditional carvel construction. My version uses cedar strip construction with fiberglass inside and out. If you enjoy wooden boats, woodworking, traditional craftsmanship, and practical boat shop problem solving, you're in the right place. Support the channel: Join me on Patreon https://www.patreon.com/nomadboatbuilding Website https://nomadboatbuilding.com/ Poulsbo Boat Project Playlist https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLnOoJJKdbR4JZFfEMWhXjloa0LhCp0GPI&si=wVjR0gySMlqsx2jw CHAPTERS 00:00 Introduction 00:49 Marking the keelson bevel 01:45 Preparing for assembly 02:25 Sanding the transom knee 03:17 Glue-up preparation and taping tricks 04:49 Waxing fasteners 05:40 Two-step epoxy bonding process 06:47 Rough beveling the keelson 07:12 Using a shipwright's slick safely 09:25 Cleaning up with a smoothing plane 10:59 Mounting the backbone to the molds 12:32 Laying out stem bevels from the lofting 20:58 Final stem shaping with a spokeshave 21:29 Carving the maker's mark 23:39 Final backbone assembly 25:55 Gluing the stem into place 27:51 Fastener and alignment tips 29:19 Final fit check

Drilling a perfectly straight hole through a curved boat stem takes more than luck. In this clip from the Gannet project, I install a hefty bronze painter ring using a homemade spear-point pilot bit, auger bits, and a counterbore for clean results. Follow along as we work through traditional wooden boatbuilding techniques with practical shop-made solutions. Website: http://www.nomadboatbuilding.com Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/nomadboatbuilding Instagram: @nomadboatbuilding

Need to drill a long hole straight through thick wood and land exactly where you want on both sides? In this episode of Nomad Boatbuilding, I show the method I use to drill accurate bolt holes through centerline boat parts like stems, transoms, and skegs—without relying on a jig or drill press. Follow along as I install a bronze painter ring in the stem of a wooden boat and cover pilot drilling, homemade spear-point bits, sighting techniques, auger bits, counterboring for nuts and washers, and simple tricks to recover when things don’t go perfectly. You’ll also learn how to counterbore without specialty tooling and my simple dowel trick for guiding Forstner or spade bits. Need a counterbore? I get mine from these suppliers: McMaster-Carr: https://www.mcmaster.com/products/counterbores/drill-bit-counterbores-for-wood~~/ Top-Notch fasteners: https://tnfasteners.com/product/counterbores-x-type/ 🌐 Website: https://nomadboatbuilding.com/ ❤️ Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/nomadboatbuilding #boatbuilding #woodworking #drillingtips #woodenboat #boatbuilder #woodworkingtips #diyboat #howto #woodworkingprojects #marineconstruction Chapters 00:00 Why drilling long straight holes is difficult 00:19 Installing a painter ring in the boat stem 00:56 What a painter ring does and why it matters 01:19 The challenge: drilling long holes straight 01:26 My secret weapon: shop-made spear-point pilot bit 02:23 Avoiding hidden fasteners & choosing the right location 02:56 Aligning centerlines for accurate drilling 03:22 Why square-to-surface matters more than perfectly plumb 03:58 Body positioning for better drill control 04:38 Starting the pilot hole & correcting angle early 05:21 What to do if you hit a fastener 05:39 Fixing holes that land slightly off-center 06:44 Evaluating accuracy & why 1/16" is acceptable 07:11 Drilling the final hole with an auger bit 08:05 Using a twist drill to clean up alignment 08:36 Counterboring for nuts & washers explained 09:28 Measuring counterbore depth with a feeler gauge 10:48 Cleaning up the counterbore with a Forstner bit 11:34 No counterbore bit? Alternative methods that work 12:06 Dowel trick for guiding Forstner or spade bits 12:34 Locking the nut & final fitment tips 13:02 Why removable wooden plugs beat epoxy 13:40 Final install considerations for the painter ring 14:07 Wrap-up & next video

Chapters 00:00 Why scarf joints matter in boatbuilding 00:08 Project intro – Poulsbo Boat build 00:33 Milling stock for long laminations 01:23 Surface prep and epoxy bonding basics 02:15 Hook scarf vs flat scarf explained 02:47 Scarf jig setup on the table saw 03:38 Glue-up setup on the bench 05:30 Preventing movement during glue-up 06:28 Using wax paper and clamping strategy 07:05 Why epoxy is ideal for scarf joints 08:11 Two-part bonding process explained 10:24 Thickening epoxy with colloidal silica 11:36 Aligning and fastening scarf joints 14:08 Clamping strategy and pressure tips 15:05 Using a strongback as a glue-up bench 16:25 Mixing fresh epoxy and timing 17:56 Clamping pads and shop-made solutions 18:48 Alternative alignment methods 19:05 Why epoxy allows shorter scarf joints 19:44 Final thoughts and wrap-up Hashtags #BoatBuilding #PoulsboBoat #WoodenBoat #ScarfJoint #Woodworking #Epoxy #WestSystem #NomadBoatBuilding Suggested Tags poulsbo boat, scarf joint woodworking, scarf joint boat building, epoxy woodworking, west system epoxy, wooden boat building, boat building techniques, scarf joint jig, woodworking tips, laminating wood, strip built boat, nomad boat building