Choosing the wrong anchor chain for your windlass is not just a performance issue — it can cause skipping, jamming, and premature wear on your chain wheel. This video breaks down every type of marine anchor chain, compares their strengths and weaknesses, and explains exactly which chain works best for windlass use. What this video covers: - Why chain and chain wheel must be matched by both diameter and chain type — and what happens when they are not - The three types of marine anchor chain: Proof Coil Grade 30, Triple B Grade 30, and High Test Grade 43, and how their link lengths differ at the same diameter - Why High Test chain is the most commonly selected chain for windlass use and how its Grade 43 strength rating makes it roughly twice as strong as Triple B - Why some sailors still choose Triple B despite the strength difference — and how its rounder, shorter links produce smoother deployment and recovery through the chain wheel - What calibrated chain means, why it matters for windlass performance, and why Acco Peerless High Test is a trusted calibrated chain option - Why stainless anchor chain is uncalibrated, four times the cost of galvanized, and less strong — and the one condition under which it works acceptably in a windlass - How to decide between High Test galvanized and stainless based on budget, strength requirements, and windlass compatibility The chain you select determines how your entire anchoring system performs. Getting the type, diameter, and calibration right before you buy saves you from expensive problems on the water. CHAPTERS: 00:00 - Intro 00:10 - Why Chain and Chain Wheel Must Match 00:20 - The Three Types of Marine Anchor Chain

Ready to master anchoring check out the NauticEd anchoring course - https://www.nauticed.org/sailing-courses/view/anchoring-a-sailboat?utm_source=youtube&utm_medium=video&utm_campaign=8Xm-oJ1q-lQ Check out IMTRA for all your windlass needs (they are experts) - https://www.imtra.com Adding a swivel between your anchor chain and your anchor is one of the most debated decisions in anchoring — and getting it wrong can result in twisted chain jamming your windlass at the worst possible moment. This NauticEd video covers whether you need an anchor swivel, what it actually does, and exactly which style to select for safe and reliable ground tackle recovery. What this video covers: - Why chain twists naturally during overnight anchoring as wind and tide change direction while you sleep - How twist shortens chain links and causes them to jam as they enter the windlass during retrieval - How a swivel connected between the anchor shank and the first chain link begins to unwind accumulated twist as the anchor lifts off the seabed - Why the two pins of a swivel are sized differently — one for the anchor shank and one for the chain link — and how that pivot geometry works - Why bullet-shaped swivels outperform traditional bow shackle style swivels on the bow roller - How flush cross pins eliminate the snagging point that causes resistance when the anchor makes the 90 degree turn over the bow roller - Why Imtra recommends the Gloma swivel made in Spain, and how its cross pin, thick sidewall, keeper pin, and Loctite retention system prevent hardware from backing out and losing your anchor at sea A swivel is a small component with significant consequences if it fails or is absent. Selecting the right style and securing it correctly is one of the most important decisions in your ground tackle system. CHAPTERS: 00:00 - Intro 00:16 - How a Anchor Swivel Works 00:43 - Why Chain Twists at Anchor 01:03 - How Twist Jams Your Windlass 01:16 - Anchor Swivel Connections 01:37 - Bullet Swivel vs Standard Swivel 01:54 - The Bow Roller Problem 02:10 - Why We Recommend the Gloma Swivel #sailinggear #sailing #boating #boatinggear

Learn the "How" to anchoring with NauticEd's Anchoring Course - https://www.nauticed.org/sailing-courses/view/anchoring-a-sailboat?utm_source=youtube&utm_medium=video&utm_campaign=65-ls5E2RQg Check out IMTRA the windlass experts - https://www.imtra.com If your anchor chain is skipping, jumping, or jamming in the chain wheel, the most likely cause is a mismatch between your chain type and your gypsy — and it is one of the most misdiagnosed problems in windlass operation. This NauticEd video explains exactly why chain skipping happens on horizontal windlasses, how to identify a chain and gypsy mismatch, and how to measure your chain correctly so you can fix it right the first time. What this video covers: - Why chain skipping is far more common on horizontal windlasses than vertical windlasses and the reason for that difference - How lead angle affects chain engagement and causes skipping even when the chain and gypsy are correctly matched - The three main chain types used in the marine industry: Proof Coil, BBB Triple B, and G43 High Test — and why they are not interchangeable - Why High Test chain links are longer in pitch than Triple B at the same diameter, causing them to skip when run through a Triple B gypsy - How to read the stampings and codes cast into your chain wheel to identify what chain type it is designed for - How gypsy wear causes the link pocket shoulders to soften over time, leading to skipping even with a matched chain - The four critical chain measurements you need before ordering a replacement gypsy or chain: rod thickness, pitch, inside link length, and inside and outside link width - Why a caliper is required for accurate chain measurement and why a tape measure is not sufficient - How to decide whether to replace the chain or replace the gypsy when a mismatch is confirmed A chain and gypsy mismatch does not fix itself. Running mismatched components accelerates wear on both and will eventually result in a jam or a dropped anchor. Getting the match right is one of the most important steps in windlass maintenance. CHAPTERS: 00:00 - Intro 00:14 - Horizontal vs Vertical Windlasses: Why It Matters 00:29 - Lead Angle as a Cause of Chain Skipping 00:47 - Why Chain and Gypsy Mismatch Causes Skipping 00:57 - The Three Chain Types: Proof Coil, BBB, and High Test 02:08 - How to Read the Stampings on Your Chain Wheel 02:39 - Replace the Chain or Replace the Gypsy? 02:55 - How Gypsy Wear Causes Skipping Over Time 03:15 - How to Measure Chain Correctly with a Caliper #sailinggear #sailing #boating #boatinggear

Learn the "How" to anchoring with NauticEd's Anchoring Course - https://www.nauticed.org/sailing-courses/view/anchoring-a-sailboat?utm_source=youtube&utm_medium=video&utm_campaign=EOUjv4QS5Lc Check out IMTRA the windlass experts - https://www.imtra.com A windlass recovering 50 feet of chain per minute will not stop for your hand or your foot. Understanding windlass safety before you operate is not optional — it is the difference between a routine anchor retrieval and a serious injury or a runaway anchor deployment. This NauticEd covers every critical safety practice for windlass operation, including how to prevent accidental anchor deployment, how to manage a chain jam safely, and why your circuit breaker must be off when the windlass is not in use. What this video covers: - Why hands and feet must stay completely clear of all ground tackle any time the windlass is operating - What a safety lanyard is, how it is installed, and why snapping it to a chain link when the anchor is in the bow roller prevents accidental deployment underway - How a loose clutch combined with no safety lanyard can allow the anchor to deploy at speed, scratch the hull, or foul the propeller - Why the circuit breaker must be turned off whenever the windlass is not being actively operated and why foot switches remain live until the breaker is off - How to safely clear a chain jam, hawkle, or pigtail in the rope without putting yourself at risk - The correct step by step procedure for clearing a jam: breaker off, safety lanyard on, release clutch, free the jam, tighten clutch, remove lanyard, breaker back on A windlass that jams can be cleared safely in minutes if you follow the right procedure. Skipping any step puts you, your crew, and your ground tackle at risk. CHAPTERS: 00:00 - Keep Hands and Feet Clear at All Times 00:16 - What a Safety Lanyard Is and How It Works 01:03 - Why the Circuit Breaker Must Be Off When Not in Use 01:13 - What a Chain Jam Looks Like and Why It Happens 01:35 - Step by Step Procedure for Clearing a Jammed Windlass #sailinggear #sailing #boating #boatinggear

Learn the "How" to anchoring with NauticEd's Anchoring Course - https://www.nauticed.org/sailing-courses/view/anchoring-a-sailboat?utm_source=youtube&utm_medium=video&utm_campaign=F_4Ano5PUBM Check out IMTRA the windlass experts - https://www.imtra.com Adding a chain inspection to your annual pre-launch checklist could be the difference between a reliable anchoring system and one that fails when you need it most. This video walks through everything you need to inspect on your anchor chain, rope, and splice before the start of every sailing season — and what to do when you find a problem. What this video covers: - How to lay out and inspect your chain link by link, and what wear, corrosion, and pitting look like - Why pitted chain must be replaced and when re-galvanizing is worth considering versus buying new - How to wash down your ground tackle dockside and why rinsing out salt regularly extends the life of your entire rode package - Why the backsplice joining your rope and chain must be inspected every single year for flexibility, fraying, tail separation, and elongation - Why a gap is intentionally left in the splice when it is first made, and how nylon shrinking around the first chain link causes windlass problems over time - How to restore flexibility to a stiff splice using your hands, a mallet, or a flathead screwdriver without causing any damage - How fabric softener in cool water can restore the flexibility of a stiff rope and extend its working life - How to double the life of your rope by cutting off a worn splice at the working end and re-splicing from the bitter end Annual inspection takes an hour on the dock. Skipping it can cost you your anchor at sea. CHAPTERS: 00:00 - Lay Out and Inspect Your Chain 00:16 - What to look for (wear, pitting, corrosion) 00:34 - Re-Galvanizing vs Buying New Chain 00:55 - Wash Down Your Ground Tackle 01:24 - Inspecting the Backsplice Every Year 01:59 - How to Restore Flexibility to a Stiff Splice 03:04 - How to Double the Life of Your Rope #sailinggear #sailing #sailboat #boating #boat

Ready to master anchoring check out the NauticEd anchoring course - https://www.nauticed.org/sailing-courses/view/anchoring-a-sailboat?utm_source=youtube&utm_medium=video&utm_campaign=m0XRjy5ot9g Check out IMTRA the windlass experts - https://www.imtra.com Choosing the wrong rope for your anchor windlass is not just inconvenient — it can leave you unable to retrieve your ground tackle. This video breaks down the two most common rope types used with windlasses and exactly when to use each one. What this video covers: - Why three strand nylon is the most commonly used windlass rope and what makes its stretch characteristics an advantage - Why three strand rope holds its diameter under load, which keeps the chain wheel able to bite consistently - What plaited rope is, how it flakes cleanly into an anchor locker, and why it is the better choice for small vessels - The critical disadvantage of plaited rope on larger boats: excessive weight forward causes the rope to elongate, shrink in diameter, and lose its grip on the chain wheel - How anchor weight, chain length, and rope type interact — and why heavy anchors with long chain runs demand three strand rope The wrong rope does not fail dramatically. It simply stops working when you need it most. Understanding the difference between these two rope types before you buy is one of the most practical decisions you can make for your anchoring system. CHAPTERS: 00:00 - Three Strand Nylon: Why It Is the Most Common Choice 00:23 - The Stretch and Diameter Advantage of Three Strand 00:35 - Plaited Rope: What It Is and When It Works Best 01:03 - The Problem with Plaited Rope on Larger Vessels 02:13 - How to Match Rope Type to Anchor Weight and Chain Length #sailing #sailinggear #sailboat

Ready to master anchoring check out the NauticEd anchoring course - https://www.nauticed.org/sailing-courses/view/anchoring-a-sailboat?utm_source=youtube&utm_medium=video&utm_campaign=MKEBAitNjbo Check out IMTRA for all your windlass needs (they are the experts) - https://www.imtra.com Knowing how much anchor chain you have deployed is critical to safe anchoring - and how you mark that chain determines whether your method survives the chain wheel or makes a mess of your anchor locker. This video covers every common chain marking method, the real-world problems with each, and why rubber chain markers are the best solution for most sailors. What this video covers: - Why spray paint flakes off inside the anchor locker and creates a significant mess over time - Why colored zip ties are a popular choice but get stripped by the chain wheel and introduce plastic into the sea - What rubber chain markers are, how they work, and why they are the preferred option - The difference between pressure fit and mechanically fastened rubber chain markers - How to cluster markers at set intervals so you always know exactly how much ground tackle is deployed Marking your chain every 20 to 25 feet with a reliable, visible method is one of the simplest upgrades you can make to your anchoring system. Rubber chain markers are reusable, clean, and designed to run through the chain wheel without causing damage. CHAPTERS: 00:00 - Intro 00:10 - Method 1: Spray Paint 00:23 - Method 2: Zip Ties 00:49 - Method 3: Rubber Chain Markers Explained 01:11 - Pressure Fit Chain Markers

Ready to master anchoring check out the NauticEd anchoring course - https://www.nauticed.org/sailing-courses/view/anchoring-a-sailboat?utm_source=youtube&utm_medium=video&utm_campaign=0tFx8l8Ymt4 Check out IMTRA for all your windlass needs (they are experts) - https://www.imtra.com --- Imtra breaks down the two most damaging windlass mistakes boaters / sailors make, why they happen, and exactly how to avoid them on any vessel. What this video covers: - Why the windlass is not a cleat and what to use instead - How wave action sends repeated shock loads back through the windlass while you are at anchor - Using a snubber or rope-chain rode to transfer load to your deck cleat, mooring bitt, or horn cleat - What happens to the main shaft in extreme storm conditions if you skip this step - Why you must run the ship's engine before operating the windlass - How low voltage caused by depleted batteries damages solenoid strike plates - causing arcing, burning, and the clicking sound that means your windlass will not engage - The correct technique: engine on, alternator charging, motor up into the wind rather than dragging the boat by the windlass The windlass exists to raise and lower the anchor. The deck hardware exists to hold the boat at anchor. Understanding this distinction is the foundation of proper windlass operation. CHAPTERS: 00:00 - Mistake One: Using Windlass as a Cleat 00:22 - Shock Loads and What They Do to the Windlass 00:38 - How to Transfer Load Using a Snubber or Rope-Chain Rode 00:55 - The Risk: Bent Shafts and Costly Repairs 01:24 - Mistake Two: Not Running the Engine Before Operating 01:52 - How Low Voltage Destroys Solenoid Strike Plates 02:28 - The Correct Windlass Technique #sailinggear #sailing #boating #boatinggear

Go deeper on offshore sailing prep: https://www.nauticed.org/bundle/view/captain?utm_source=youtube&utm_medium=video&utm_campaign=_2-GnKbuy7o Heave-to is one of the most powerful and underused sailing techniques you can master - whether you're stopping for lunch, managing a man overboard, or riding out heavy weather offshore. In this step-by-step 3D animated breakdown, NauticEd shows you exactly how to execute a heave-to on a sailboat, why the physics work, and how to exit back into normal sailing safely. What you'll learn: - What heave-to is and the 3 key situations where you need it - How to tack the boat without the headsail — the critical first step - Why backwinding the headsail and turning the helm to windward creates a stable "hove-to" position - The slick effect: how sideways drift flattens approaching waves in a storm, protecting your hull - How to exit heave-to quickly and get back underway Heave-to is a core offshore seamanship skill recognized in sailing certifications worldwide. If you're preparing for bluewater passages, coastal cruising, or just want to be a more confident sailor, this technique belongs in your toolkit. 00:00 - What Is Heave-To & When to Use It 00:17 - Tack the Boat, Not the Headsail 00:27 - Ease the Mainsail & Let the Boat Slow 00:37 - Helm Hard to Windward 00:47 - The Balancing Effect: Why It Works 01:15 - Storm Bonus: The Slick Effect Explained 01:29 - How to Exit Heave-To #sailing #sailboat #sailingschool #sailinglife

If you’re learning to sail, you don’t need to break the bank on day one. In this video, we walk through what to wear for your first time sailing using things you probably already have: quick-dry shirts/shorts, a simple waterproof shell, and the right footwear. We cover what fabrics to avoid (cotton and jeans), why you shouldn’t go barefoot on a boat, how to check if your shoes will grip (soft rubber soles), and glove options from proper sailing gloves to cheap grippy work gloves. We also talk about hats/sunglasses for sun protection and when you should wear a PFD (life jacket)—especially for dinghy sailing—plus how to fit it correctly so it stays on in the water. Looking for boat shoes or boating apparel check out Team One Newport - https://www.team1newport.com Trying to become a better boater check out NauticEd - https://www.nauticed.org 00:00 - What to Wear for Your First Sail 00:12 - Best Fabrics: Quick-Dry Polyester (Avoid Cotton) 00:29 - Why Not Jeans? (Heavy, Wet, Stays Wet) 00:39 - Shoes: Don’t Go Barefoot 01:22 - Gloves for Beginners (Why They Help) 02:33 - Hat + Sunglasses (Sun/Eye Protection) 03:04 - Jacket Options: Rain Shell vs Sailing Jacket 03:33 - Ski vs Hiking Jackets (What Works) 04:22 - Should You Wear a Life Jacket (PFD)? #sailing #boating #sailinggear #sailor

Ready to skipper a bigger sailboat with confidence? Check out NauticEd’s Skipper Large Sailboat Bundle—built for real-world decision-making, not guesswork. - https://www.nauticed.org/bundle/view/skipper?utm_source=youtube&utm_medium=video&utm_campaign=4D038JuFPnM Buying or selling a sailboat in the Northeast? Sailboats Northeast helps you price it right, negotiate cleanly, and get to closing without the headaches. - https://www.sneyachts.com What’s the difference between a marine survey and a sea trial—and do you need both? In this video we break it down simply. A survey is the overall inspection of the boat’s condition: structure, decks (including moisture concerns), mechanicals, rig/mast, and major systems. A sea trial is typically part of that process—getting the boat on the water to verify performance: raising/lowering sails, instrument accuracy, and putting the boat through its paces. We also cover what surveys usually catch—and what can still get missed when components are hidden behind structure (like chainplates behind a bulkhead). 00:00 - Survey vs Sea Trial (Quick Definition) 00:10 - What a Survey Covers (Whole-Boat Condition) 00:20 - What a Sea Trial Tests On the Water 00:38 - What Surveys Catch (Most Major Issues) #sailing #sailboat #sailor