We sail over calm seas to anchor at the town of Raha, Sulawesi in search of ancient caves. Here, hidden amongst the rain forest in the limestone hills of Muna Island, Liangkabori Caves hold a remarkable secret — vivid rock art created three and half to four thousand years ago. Scrambling through narrow into chambers deep underground, we discover ancient paintings, etched and painted in red ochre, depict human figures, animals, and mysterious geometric shapes. As archaeologists continue to study the site, the art reveals a deep cultural connection between past and present, with local traditions still echoing the symbols and stories found on the cave walls. For ocean travellers like us, Indonesia is certainly a nation of wonders.

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