Fiberglassing doesn’t have to be messy, itchy, or intimidating. In this video, I walk through my practical, low-stress approach to fiberglassing wooden boat parts — the same methods I use in my own shop to keep the process clean, efficient, and predictable. If you’ve avoided fiberglassing because it feels complicated or unpleasant, this video is for you. Over the years I’ve developed simple techniques that remove most of the frustration and help produce consistent results without unnecessary fuss. Today we fiberglass flat plywood deck panels for an Iain Oughtred–designed Gannet using WEST SYSTEM epoxy products. Along the way, I cover preparation, cloth handling, epoxy application, and several small tricks that make a big difference in the final finish. In this video you’ll learn: • Why fiberglass improves plywood durability and stability • How to prepare panels before glassing • Setting up a clean workspace for epoxy work • Cutting and positioning fiberglass cloth properly • Joining cloth seams cleanly using salvage edges • Mixing epoxy efficiently with simple shop tools • Proper wet-out technique using a spreader • How to avoid bubbles and excess resin • Timing multiple coats for a chemical bond • Using peel ply (release fabric) to reduce sanding • Bias-cut fiberglass for tight curves and stems Fiberglassing isn’t about rushing — it’s about preparation and patience. Done well, it saves time later and dramatically improves durability. 🌐 Website: https://www.nomadboatbuilding.com 📸 Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/nomadboatbuilding 🛠 Support these videos on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/nomadboatbuilding If you enjoy practical wooden boatbuilding knowledge and want to help keep these videos coming, please consider supporting the channel on Patreon. This video is sponsored by WEST SYSTEM Epoxy: https://www.westsystem.com ⏱ Chapters: 00:00 Why Fiberglassing Feels Intimidating 00:36 Project Overview — Gannet Deck Panels 01:19 Why Fiberglass Plywood Decks 01:49 Shop Preparation & Clean Workspace 02:49 Mixing Epoxy Using a Drill Press 03:43 Cutting Fiberglass Cloth 04:17 Positioning & Smoothing Cloth 06:02 Is Fiberglass Actually Itchy? 07:38 Understanding Salvage Edges 08:43 Joining Two Pieces of Cloth Cleanly 10:05 Cleaning Up Cut Edges 12:13 Managing Overlaps & Layout 14:02 Planning Your Glassing Day 15:16 Preventing Air Bubbles (Temperature Trick) 15:23 WEST SYSTEM Epoxy Setup 17:01 Safety & Respirator Use 17:21 Wetting Out the Cloth 21:03 Removing Excess Epoxy Properly 22:50 Timing Additional Coats 24:31 Using Peel Ply / Release Fabric 25:51 Results After Cure 27:53 Sanding Reality Check 28:49 Bias-Cut Fiberglass for Tight Curves 31:06 Practice Makes Better Results 31:18 Thanks & Closing Thoughts #fiberglassing #boatbuilding #woodenboat #epoxy #westsystem #DIYboatbuilding #woodworking #traditionalcraft #NomadBoatBuilding #MarkReuten

Howdy folks! Welcome back to Nomad Boat Building. My name is Mark Reuten, and this video is part of the Poulsbo Boat Project, where I’m documenting the complete build of a traditional Poulsbo Boat from start to finish. In this episode, we build the station molds—the forms that define the shape of the hull. These molds are critical to the entire build, as every plank we install will reference them. Instead of using plywood, I walk through my preferred method of building molds from solid 1x material. This approach is more economical, easier to work with in the shop, and allows the material to be reused after the molds are no longer needed. We go step-by-step through laying out the mold shape from the plans, transferring the geometry using simple tools, cutting the curves on the bandsaw, and assembling the molds with gussets and cross spalls. Along the way, I also cover notch layout for inwales and risers, fairing considerations, and a few lessons learned (including what not to do). The Poulsbo Boat is being built using strip planking with cedar strips, reinforced with fiberglass inside and out—a blend of traditional and modern boatbuilding techniques. If you're interested in woodworking, traditional craftsmanship, and practical boat shop problem solving, this series follows the entire build from start to finish. My Website https://www.nomadboatbuilding.com Support the channel on Patreon https://www.patreon.com/nomadboatbuilding Follow along on Instagram @nomadboatbuilding Poulsbo Boat Build Series Watch the full series here: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLnOoJJKdbR4JZFfEMWhXjloa0LhCp0GPI Chapters 00:00 Introduction 00:28 What is a Poulsbo Boat 00:44 Strip planking vs traditional planking 01:00 What station molds are 01:26 Why use 1x material instead of plywood 02:19 Material layout for molds 03:27 Finding the miter joint 04:18 Cutting and assembling the mold halves 05:20 Transferring the mold shape 06:18 Marking baseline and reference details 07:15 Notch templates and consistent angles 08:16 Removing the mylar and preparing for layout 09:19 Fairing the mold with a batten 10:20 Assembling and reinforcing the mold 11:28 Cutting the molds on the bandsaw 13:43 Why 1x material is easier than plywood 14:37 Notches for keelson and structure 15:01 Mistake: cutting notches too early 16:41 Fixing fairing issues with blocking 17:06 Adjusting process due to bench size 18:37 Aligning and gusseting molds 21:04 Refining the mold shape 23:19 Solving layout table limitations 24:21 Final assembly on the strongback reference 25:11 Installing the cross spall 26:14 Finished molds and next steps #BoatBuilding #PoulsboBoat #WoodenBoat #StripPlanking #BoatBuildingTips #Woodworking #TraditionalCraft #NomadBoatBuilding

Howdy folks! Welcome back to Nomad Boat Building. My name is Mark Reuten, and in this episode, we step back into traditional boatbuilding geometry and lay out a deck camber using simple geometric methods. Instead of relying on some form of compass to lay out a chord of a circle I walk through a practical shop-friendly approach using basic tools to create an accurate crown over a given span. We talk about how deck camber is defined in boat plans, how to translate that into a physical layout, and why this geometric method is often faster and more practical than using a string-and-radius approach—especially in a small shop. This technique is useful not just for deck beams, but also for making reusable patterns, shaping beam shelves, and ensuring consistent curvature across the entire boat. My Website https://www.nomadboatbuilding.com Support the channel on Patreon https://www.patreon.com/nomadboatbuilding Follow along on Instagram @nomadboatbuilding Support the Channel If you enjoy these videos you can help the channel by: • Liking the video • Subscribing to the channel • Leaving a comment • Using Super Thanks Support these videos with monthly or annual pledges at Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/nomadboatbuilding Chapters 00:00 Introduction to deck camber geometry 00:11 What deck camber actually is 00:29 Reference: Chapelle’s Boat Building 01:12 Why traditional knowledge still matters 02:20 Why this method makes more sense over time 03:08 Defining camber (crown vs width) 03:49 Example: 3" crown over 5 ft 04:56 Laying out the baseline 05:44 Establishing perpendicular height 06:15 Creating the camber radius 06:30 Dividing the arc using geometry 07:30 Dividing the baseline 08:17 Connecting points to form the curve 09:56 Using awls to set reference points 10:53 Fairing the curve with a batten 11:48 Why not just use a string radius? 12:30 Making reusable camber patterns 13:09 Applying camber across the boat 13:41 Real-world compromises and fairness 14:05 Final thoughts on geometry in the shop #WoodenBoat #BoatBuildingGeometry #DeckCamber #Woodworking #TraditionalCraft #NomadBoatBuilding

My website: https://www.nomadboatbuilding.com Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/nomadboatbuilding/ It's not about the money but living isn't free... Here are some ways you can support this channel. Buy some merch: https://www.nomadboatbuilding.com/shop/ Support these videos with monthly or annual pledges at Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/nomadboatbuilding Or make a one time donation: https://www.paypal.com/paypalme/nomadboatbuilding

Howdy folks! Welcome back to Nomad Boat Building. In Episode 2 of the Poulsbo Boat Project, I spend the week preparing materials and fabricating a few laminated bits. This stage of boatbuilding may not be the most glamorous, but it’s one of the most important. A huge portion of the time is spent sorting lumber, milling stock to thickness, and preparing parts before assembly can even begin. In this episode you’ll see: • Processing lumber and selecting materials for the build • Milling boards to thickness and preparing stock • Ripping western red cedar strips for strip-built planking • Laminating the stem and transom knee • Fixing springback in a laminated stem • Laminating a cutwater (outer stem) • Tips for clamps, laminations, and shop workflow The Poulsbo Boat will be strip-built with western red cedar planking, which allows for a lightweight and stable hull once fiberglassed. I also explain why I’m skipping the traditional bead-and-cove process for these planks and how I plan to align them during installation. Boatbuilding is often about problem solving, and when the laminated stem sprung back more than expected, I show how to correct it and bring it back to the proper lines. If you enjoy woodworking, traditional craftsmanship, wooden boats, or boatbuilding techniques, this series follows the entire build from lofting to launch. 👍 If you enjoy the videos, please like, subscribe, and consider supporting the channel. You can also support the channel here: Patreon → see link in description Thanks for watching! 00:00 Introduction – PSBow Boat Project Week 2 00:08 Processing materials for the build 00:33 Laminated stem blank 00:49 Choosing sapele instead of oak 01:24 Structural lumber selection 01:32 Transom knee lamination 01:39 Thickness planing stock 02:13 Why milling lumber takes so long 02:52 Preparing cedar planking strips 03:18 Why vertical grain is ideal for strip planking 04:26 Why I skipped bead and cove strips 05:34 Fixing springback in the laminated stem 06:43 What caused the springback 08:25 Laminating the transom knee 09:23 Adjusting lamination technique 10:04 Channel support options 12:29 Marking the stem lines 13:02 Fairing the stem back to shape 15:27 Bandsaw safety tip 16:06 Laminating the cutwater (outer stem) 17:41 Lamination setup explained 18:39 Clamping techniques for tight bends 19:50 Clamp buying advice 20:39 Leaving the lamination to cure 20:43 Centerline fastener planning 21:33 Wrap up

How do you build a lightweight wooden mast? In this episode, we make a bird’s mouth hollow spar, laying out an elliptical taper, cutting precise joinery, and gluing the mast together with epoxy. #Boatbuilding #Woodworking #WoodenBoat #SparMaking My website: https://www.nomadboatbuilding.com Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/nomadboatbuilding/ It's not about the money but living isn't free... Here are some ways you can support this channel. Buy some merch: https://www.nomadboatbuilding.com/shop/ Support these videos with monthly or annual pledges at Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/nomadboatbuilding Or make a one time donation: https://www.paypal.com/paypalme/nomadboatbuilding

In this episode of Nomad Boat Building, Mark walks through the full process of building a bird’s mouth hollow wooden mast using traditional spar-making techniques and modern epoxy methods. Starting from the sail plan, we break down how to determine mast diameters, lay out an elliptical spar taper, and calculate stave dimensions. Then it’s into the shop to mill Douglas fir staves, cut precise bird’s mouth joints, plane accurate tapers, and glue everything together using West System 105 epoxy and 207 hardener. This hollow spar construction method creates a lightweight, strong wooden mast that’s easier to handle and step than a solid spar. Whether you’re building a small boat mast, boom, or yard, these techniques apply to traditional wooden spars of all kinds. Big thanks to West System Epoxy for supporting this video. https://www.westsystem.com/ 👉 Bird’s Mouth Spar Calculator & Resources https://www.chase-small-craft.com/birdsmouth-sparmaking  #Boatbuilding #WoodenMast #SparMaking #BirdsmouthJoint #Woodworking #Epoxy #TraditionalCraft #WestSystem00:00 Intro & Finished Mast Tease 00:41 What Is a Bird’s Mouth Mast? 00:47 Reading the Sail Plan for Mast Dimensions 01:32 Understanding Elliptical Spar Tapers 02:42 Simple Method for Laying Out a Mast Taper 05:44 Calculating and Tapering the Staves 06:28 Keeping One Side of the Mast Flat 07:30 Milling Douglas Fir Staves 08:52 Cutting the Bird’s Mouth Joint 09:25 Planing Stave Tapers by Hand 10:41 Preparing for Glue-Up & End Blocking 11:07 Making Octagonal Blocking for Mast Ends 13:26 Setting Up for the Epoxy Glue-Up 14:47 Keeping the Mast Flat During Assembly 17:14 Wetting Out Joints with Epoxy 19:13 Avoiding Glue Starvation 20:01 Installing Internal Mast Blocking 21:24 Coating the Inside of the Hollow Mast 22:37 Thickened Epoxy in the Bird’s Mouth Joints 24:17 Assembling the Staves in Saddles 26:22 Closing the Final Stave 27:31 Clamping with Hose Clamps 29:48 Laying the Mast Flat to Set Shape 30:45 Using a Laser to Keep the Mast Straight 31:44 Glue-Up Complete 34:18 Knocking Off Corners – Octagon Shaping 35:10 The 7-10-7 Rule (Octagon to 16 Sides) 38:53 Sanding the Mast Round 39:38 Why Hollow Masts Are Worth It 39:56 Final Thoughts & Resources My website: https://www.nomadboatbuilding.com Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/nomadboatbuilding/ Support these videos with monthly or annual pledges at Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/nomadboatbuilding Or make a one time donation: https://www.paypal.com/paypalme/nomadboatbuilding

Most wooden boat spars aren’t straight tapers — they’re elliptical. And laying one out is way easier than you think. Here’s the simple method traditional boatbuilders use to shape masts, booms, and yards without complicated math. 🌐 nomadboatbuilding.com🛠 Support the builds: patreon.com/nomadboatbuilding #boatbuilding #woodenboat #sailboat #boatbuilder #woodworking #traditionalcraft #diyboat #maritime #sailinglife

Building a wooden sailboat mast, boom, or yard? Here’s how to lay out a proper elliptical spar taper — the traditional shape used on real wooden boats. In this video, Mark from Nomad Boat Building walks you step-by-step through the simple layout method used to create an elliptical taper on wooden spars. Whether your boat plans give you full dimensions or just major and minor diameters, this technique lets you accurately draw and cut a fair, traditional taper using basic tools and a scrap of wood. This is an essential skill for wooden boat builders working on masts, booms, and yards — and it’s much easier than it sounds. 🌐 Website: https://www.nomadboatbuilding.com 📸 Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/nomadboatbuilding 🛠 Support these builds on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/nomadboatbuilding If these videos help you with your own boat project, consider supporting the channel on Patreon — it helps keep these traditional boatbuilding skills alive and more tutorials coming. ⏱ Chapters: 00:00 Who This Video Is For 00:12 What Is a Spar Taper? 00:27 Why Spars Have Elliptical Tapers 00:33 What Boat Plans May (or May Not) Include 01:23 When You Have to Figure It Out Yourself 01:49 Tools Needed for Layout 02:09 Establishing Reference Lines 02:42 Major vs Minor Diameter 03:02 The Concept of Stretching a Circle 03:21 Dividing the Circle into Equal Parts 04:20 Transferring Measurements to the Spar 05:26 Connecting the Dots for the Elliptical Curve 06:16 Using a Batten to Fair the Line 06:35 Important: One Face of a Spar Is Often Straight 07:27 Real Example from Boat Plans 07:52 Rounding the Spar (Teaser for 7-10-7 Rule) #boatbuilding #woodenboat #sailboatbuilding #traditionalboatbuilding #woodworking #marinemaking #diyboat #boatbuilder #sparmaking #mastbuilding

Most people think wooden boatbuilding requires complicated math. It doesn’t. The 7-10-7 rule is a simple geometric trick that lets you turn square stock into a perfectly rounded spar — quickly, accurately, and without repetitive calculations. Square → Octagon → 16 sides → Round. Simple. Elegant. Reliable. 🌐 nomadboatbuilding.com 🛠 Support the channel: patreon.com/nomadboatbuilding #boatbuilding #woodworking #sparbuilding #handtools #traditionalcraft #geometry #DIY

The 7-10-7 Rule — An Old Boatbuilder’s Trick for Perfectly Rounding a Spar In this episode of Nomad Boatbuilding, I share a simple geometric method that replaces repetitive math when shaping spars by hand. Some people think wooden boat building requires complicated calculations. That can be true when designing boats — but building them is another story. In practice, geometry is often far more useful than math. The 7-10-7 rule is a straightforward way to divide the face of a square into proportional sections (7 units, 10 units, 7 units — 24 in total). By removing the corners at those marks, we quickly create an accurate octagon. Repeat the process and we move from square to octagon to 16 sides… and eventually to a smooth, round spar. In this video I cover: • How the 7-10-7 rule works • Why imperial rulers make scaling easy • Turning square stock into an octagon • Moving from 8 sides to 16 sides • Using (and making) a spar gauge • Applying the method to tapered spars • Why geometry beats repetitive calculation • Using the same principle for moldings, banjo necks, plugs, and even walking sticks This method works for squares, rectangles, trapezoids, and tapered spars. It’s one of those core pieces of traditional boatbuilding knowledge that makes shaping round forms efficient, accurate, and satisfying. 🌐 Website: https://www.nomadboatbuilding.com 📸 Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/nomadboatbuilding 🛠 Support these videos on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/nomadboatbuilding If you value traditional boatbuilding knowledge and want to help keep these videos coming, consider supporting the channel on Patreon. ⏱ Chapters: 00:00 Introduction — What Is the 7-10-7 Rule? 00:43 Geometry vs Math in Boatbuilding 01:01 Turning Square Stock into an Octagon 01:24 How the 7-10-7 Division Works 03:56 Demonstration on a 6x6 Cross Section 06:24 From Octagon to 16 Sides 08:08 Applying the Rule to Rectangles & Trapezoids 11:17 Using the Rule on a Tapered Spar 12:37 Spar Gauges Explained 14:41 Imperial vs Metric Scaling 16:08 Making an Octagonal Plug for a Hollow Mast 17:38 Planing to the Lines by Hand 18:50 A Simple Tape Trick for Divisions 20:19 Beyond Boatbuilding — Banjos & Walking Sticks 21:14 Why This Method Works So Well #woodenboat #boatbuilding #sparbuilding #woodworking #handtools #traditionalcraft #geometry #DIYwoodworking #NomadBoatBuilding #MarkReuten

What does restoring a 200-year-old Danish barn have to do with wooden boat building? Quite a lot, actually. In this episode, I travel to Denmark to help my friend Mikkel transition his online boatbuilding school into a hands-on learning space. Together, we repair and restore part of an 1800s timber-frame barn using traditional materials and methods — lime mortar, reclaimed bricks, scarf joints, and careful structural thinking. Along the way, we talk about: • Timber frame repairs and structural problem solving • Why lime mortar is better than cement for historic buildings • Reusing original materials whenever possible • How traditional construction mirrors wooden boat restoration • The philosophy of repair vs. replacement • Preserving history while adapting buildings for modern use There’s a strong connection between repairing an old boat and restoring an old building. In both cases, it’s about understanding structure, respecting materials, keeping as much original fabric as possible, and solving puzzles thoughtfully. We also visit the original site where the barn stood before it was moved in 1862, talk about Danish building traditions, and reflect on what it means to keep craft alive across generations. 🌐 Website: https://www.nomadboatbuilding.com 📸 Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/nomadboatbuilding 🛠 Support these videos on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/nomadboatbuilding If you enjoy traditional craft, timber framing, wooden boats, and thoughtful restoration work, consider supporting the channel on Patreon. It helps keep these projects — and the teaching — going. Check out Mikkel’s school here: https://www.smallboatschool.com ⏱ Chapters: 00:00 Arriving in Denmark 00:26 Restoring a 200-Year-Old Barn 01:20 Danish Farmland & Managed Forests 03:27 Switching to Lime Mortar 04:35 Mixing Traditional Lime Mortar (1:4 Ratio) 07:44 Reclaimed & Historic Bricks 08:47 How We Met (Online Boatbuilding Origins) 11:29 Why I Chose YouTube Over Online Courses 14:06 Transitioning to Hands-On Boatbuilding School 17:48 How Barn Repair Relates to Boat Repair 21:46 Managing Water & Preventing Rot 23:31 Traditional Buildings That Last Centuries 25:05 Repairing vs. “Restoring to Original” 27:12 Adapting Old Spaces for Modern Use 31:21 Traditional Materials & Self-Sufficiency 32:37 The Story of Ruth (Farm History) 39:06 Tuck Pointing & Finishing the Brickwork 42:14 Timber Framing Course Announcement 43:04 Building a Banjo from Barn Wood #timberframing #woodenboat #traditionalcraft #historicrestoration #limemortar #boatbuilding #woodworking #handtools #heritagecraft #boatbuilder

My website: https://www.nomadboatbuilding.com Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/nomadboatbuilding/ It's not about the money but living isn't free... Here are some ways you can support this channel. Buy some merch: https://www.nomadboatbuilding.com/shop/ Support these videos with monthly or annual pledges at Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/nomadboatbuilding Or make a one time donation: https://www.paypal.com/paypalme/nomadboatbuilding

Building a laminated wooden boat transom using a marine plywood core and solid mahogany veneers for maximum strength, stability, and a beautiful bright finish. In this Short from Nomad Boat Building, Mark Reuten shows how combining traditional wooden boat aesthetics with modern epoxy lamination creates a transom that’s durable, repairable, and built to last for decades. Using West System Epoxy, the mahogany veneers are bonded to both sides of the plywood core, then capped with solid wood so no plywood is exposed. This method gives you the stability of plywood and the refinishable surface of solid wood — the best of both worlds in wooden boat construction. Check out West System Epoxies: https://www.westsystem.com/ #BoatBuilding #WoodenBoat #BoatBuilder #Epoxy #WestSystem #Mahogany #DIYBoat #MarineEpoxy #Woodworking #BoatRestoration My website: https://www.nomadboatbuilding.com Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/nomadboatbuilding/ It's not about the money but living isn't free... Here are some ways you can support this channel. Buy some merch: https://www.nomadboatbuilding.com/shop/ Support these videos with monthly or annual pledges at Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/nomadboatbuilding Or make a one time donation: https://www.paypal.com/paypalme/nomadboatbuilding

Building a laminated wooden boat transom using a marine plywood core and solid mahogany veneers for maximum strength, stability, and a beautiful bright finish. In this Short from Nomad Boat Building, Mark Reuten shows how combining traditional wooden boat aesthetics with modern epoxy lamination creates a transom that’s durable, repairable, and built to last for decades. Using West System Epoxy, the mahogany veneers are bonded to both sides of the plywood core, then capped with solid wood so no plywood is exposed. This method gives you the stability of plywood and the refinishable surface of solid wood — the best of both worlds in wooden boat construction. #BoatBuilding #WoodenBoat #BoatBuilder #Epoxy #WestSystem #Mahogany #DIYBoat #MarineEpoxy #Woodworking #BoatRestoration My website: https://www.nomadboatbuilding.com Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/nomadboatbuilding/ It's not about the money but living isn't free... Here are some ways you can support this channel. Buy some merch: https://www.nomadboatbuilding.com/shop/ Support these videos with monthly or annual pledges at Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/nomadboatbuilding Or make a one time donation: https://www.paypal.com/paypalme/nomadboatbuilding

How to Build a Laminated Boat Transom | Plywood Core + Solid Mahogany Veneers | West System Epoxy In this episode of Nomad Boat Building, Mark Reuten walks through the complete process of building a laminated wooden transom for a 15-foot Puget Sound sport fishing boat. This transom combines a marine plywood core with solid mahogany veneers on both faces, creating a structure that is strong, stable, repairable, and beautiful under varnish. Instead of leaving thin plywood face veneers exposed, Mark laminates thick solid wood to the surface. The result? A durable, long-lasting bright-finished transom that can be sanded and refinished many times without risking damage to the core. This method blends modern epoxy construction with a traditional wooden boat appearance. You’ll see the full workflow, including: Selecting and grain-matching mahogany Slip matching vs. book matching veneers Jointing and panel layout Wet-out and bonding with West System Epoxy Thickening epoxy with fillers for structural laminations Clamping strategies for large glue-ups Adding a solid wood transom cap Mark also explains why he prefers laminated construction over epoxy-coated plywood, and how this approach improves long-term serviceability and appearance. This project uses West System 105 Resin with a mix of 205, 206, and 207 hardeners, along with fillers like 405 Filleting Blend, to achieve strong, reliable glue joints for marine use. Whether you're building a wooden boat, restoring a transom, or learning advanced epoxy woodworking techniques, this video is packed with practical, real-world boatbuilding knowledge from a builder with over 30 years of experience. 👍 Like the video if you enjoy traditional wooden boat building 🔔 Subscribe for more step-by-step boat construction 🛠 Supported by West System Epoxy https://www.westsystem.com/ #BoatBuilding #WoodenBoat #BoatRestoration #Epoxy #WestSystem #Woodworking #MarineEpoxy #DIYBoat #Laminating #Mahogany My website: https://www.nomadboatbuilding.com Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/nomadboatbuilding/ It's not about the money but living isn't free... Here are some ways you can support this channel. Buy some merch: https://www.nomadboatbuilding.com/shop/ Support these videos with monthly or annual pledges at Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/nomadboatbuilding Or make a one time donation: https://www.paypal.com/paypalme/nomadboatbuilding

My website: https://www.nomadboatbuilding.com Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/nomadboatbuilding/ It's not about the money but living isn't free... Here are some ways you can support this channel. Buy some merch: https://www.nomadboatbuilding.com/shop/ Support these videos with monthly or annual pledges at Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/nomadboatbuilding Or make a one time donation: https://www.paypal.com/paypalme/nomadboatbuilding

My website: https://www.nomadboatbuilding.com Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/nomadboatbuilding/ It's not about the money but living isn't free... Here are some ways you can support this channel. Buy some merch: https://www.nomadboatbuilding.com/shop/ Support these videos with monthly or annual pledges at Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/nomadboatbuilding Or make a one time donation: https://www.paypal.com/paypalme/nomadboatbuilding

In this episode, Mark from Nomad Boat Building travels to Denmark to help his friend Mikkel of Small Boat School—and in their spare time, they take on the restoration of a 200-year-old Danish timber frame barn. Originally relocated in 1862, this historic structure is being carefully repaired and adapted into a future hands-on classroom space. Using a mix of traditional timber framing joinery and practical modern tools, the two work to stabilize leaning walls, replace rotten sill beams, repair posts, and fit new mortise and tenon joints into centuries-old wood. Along the way, they reuse original lime-mortared bricks, discuss historic Scandinavian building terminology, and demonstrate efficient, minimal-intervention repairs that preserve as much original material as possible. Expect half-lap joints, scarf joints, loose tenons, chain mortising, and plenty of problem-solving as they carefully shift and realign parts of the barn’s structure. This series documents the restoration of a historic Danish barn, showing traditional craftsmanship, structural timber repair, and the realities of working on old agricultural buildings. Whether you're into timber framing, historic building restoration, traditional woodworking, or heritage construction, this project offers practical insight and plenty of character. 👉 Learn more about Mikkel’s boatbuilding course at Small Boat School Website: https://www.smallboatschool.com/ 👉 Follow Mark’s work at Nomad Boat Building Website: https://www.nomadboatbuilding.com Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/nomadboatbuilding/ Support these videos with monthly or annual pledges at Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/nomadboatbuilding Or make a one time donation: https://www.paypal.com/paypalme/nomadboatbuilding Topics in this video: • 200-year-old barn restoration • Danish timber frame construction • Traditional mortise and tenon joinery • Half-lap and scarf joints • Reusing historic bricks with lime mortar • Structural sill beam replacement • Timber frame wall realignment • Hand tools and modern power tools in restoration ⏱ Video Chapters 00:00 Introduction – Arriving in Denmark & The Barn Project 00:42 History of the 200-Year-Old Danish Barn 01:35 Stabilizing the Structure with Jacks 02:38 Reusing Old Bricks & Lime Mortar 04:10 Assessing Rot & Wall Movement 04:46 Rebuilding the Sill Beam 05:52 Timber Joinery Repairs Explained 06:35 Lifting and Realigning the Wall 08:46 Freeing the Structure & Adjusting Supports 11:21 Repairing a “Loose Halt” Timber 12:22 Danish Timber Framing Terminology 13:19 Traditional Scarf Joints vs Half-Laps 13:54 Reinstalling Structural Timbers 14:57 Blending Traditional Joinery with Modern Tools 18:56 Corner Repair Progress Update 21:17 Removing a Major Structural Timber 22:29 Lowering Heavy Timber Safely with Ropes 24:04 Fine-Tuning Timber Fit 26:40 Laying Out a New Mortise 29:58 Chain Mortiser in Action 32:43 Cleaning Up Mortises by Hand 35:07 Test Fitting the Timber 36:22 “Barn Sauce” & Workshop Humor 37:34 Driving the Joint Home 40:21 Final Doweling & Woodwork Wrap-Up 40:46 What’s Next – Masonry Work Begins #BarnRestoration #TimberFraming #HistoricRestoration #Woodworking #TraditionalJoinery #DanishBarn #HeritageBuilding #BoatBuilder

My website: https://www.nomadboatbuilding.com Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/nomadboatbuilding/ It's not about the money but living isn't free... Here are some ways you can support this channel. Buy some merch: https://www.nomadboatbuilding.com/shop/ Support these videos with monthly or annual pledges at Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/nomadboatbuilding Or make a one time donation: https://www.paypal.com/paypalme/nomadboatbuilding