Rocky adventures in Sweden | step 36

We embarked on an exciting journey through the Swedish fjords and coastal islands, experiencing a mix of beautiful scenery, challenging navigation, and memorable encounters. Our adventure took us from Gullholmen to Fjällbacka, the Koster Islands, and finally to Strömstad, as we prepared for our crossing into Norwegian waters. Gullholmen to Fjällbacka We set sail from Gullholmen, bidding farewell to our friends on the Gandalf. The weather was changeable, with sun, overcast skies, and even a bout of hard rain. We covered about 20 miles with winds from the south-west at 5-10 knots. Our journey took us through beautiful rocky passages, where we encountered some challenges. The plotter jammed in a tricky passage with unusual buoyage, forcing us to quickly resort to using our phone for navigation. The rain made the situation more difficult, but we persevered. Despite these obstacles, we found a pleasant mooring spot where we became the talk of the town. Many locals came to chat and inquire about our Waarschip (WJ). We enjoyed walks with our dog Reef, treated ourselves to a nice dinner, and marveled at the beautiful sunset. Summer in Sweden The next day brought perfect summer weather as we sailed to Fjällbacka, famous for its connection to crime novelist Camilla Läckberg and actress Ingrid Bergman. The route was breathtaking, winding through rock formations and past tiny towns with holiday homes built on and between rocks. We had an adrenaline-pumping moment navigating through Hamburgsund. This busy narrow passage with a car ferry proved challenging, as the ferry's signals were unclear, and it used cables that suddenly emerged from the water. We had to perform an emergency maneuver to avoid collision, but we managed to navigate safely through. In Fjällbacka, we anchored near a beautiful beach, perfect for walking Reef. The town itself was a bustling holiday resort with many shops, ice cream parlors, and bistros. Unexpected Encounter and Rainy Day We spent an extra day at anchor near Fjällbacka due to rainy weather. This gave us time to relax, catch up on some work, and make plans for our upcoming journey to Norway. Unexpectedly, we discovered that friends were vacationing nearby in Grebbestad. Although we couldn't bring our boat into the full harbour, we took the dinghy to meet them for coffee, which was a delightful surprise. Koster Islands Our next destination was the Koster Islands, Sweden's only marine national park with coral reefs. We motored most of the way due to unfavourable winds, taking turns navigating through the rock formations. We found a good anchorage on the north side of the island. On the island, we witnessed the vibrant holiday atmosphere. Children were swimming and playing, fathers were fishing, and small sailboats dotted the water with parents teaching their children to sail. We were particularly impressed by young children confidently operating motorized dinghies. We enjoyed dinner at the island hotel and explored potential snorkeling spots, capturing underwater footage with our Insta360 camera. Strömstad Our final stop in Swedish waters was Strömstad, where we needed to visit a vet for Reef's required worming treatment before entering Norway. We arrived early to secure a good spot in the marina. Strömstad proved to be a lively tourist town. The harbor almost encircled the entire town, with hotels and restaurants bustling with activity. The streets were filled with holidaymakers enjoying the summer atmosphere. We took care of necessary errands, including Reef's vet visit, shopping for supplies, and even a quick haircut for Robin. Preparing for Norway As we spent our last days in Sweden, we focused on preparing for our crossing into Norwegian waters. We stayed an extra day in Strömstad to stock up on supplies, as we had heard about the higher prices in Norway. We also took care of important administrative tasks. This included registering Reef with Swedish customs (which we had initially forgotten), reviewing Norwegian customs regulations, and ensuring all our paperwork was in order for potential inspections. Our last day in Sweden coincided with our 30th anniversary of being together. We celebrated with a relaxed day, enjoying the sunny weather and the lively atmosphere in the harbor. A kind Norwegian family even gifted us a dolphin candy after hearing about our hopes to see dolphins during our journey. As we prepared to set sail for Norway, we felt a mix of excitement and anticipation for the new adventures that awaited us in Norwegian waters. With our boat stocked, our dog cleared for entry, and favorable winds forecast, we were ready to embark on the next leg of our Nordic sailing adventure.