How to catch a black eye. Sailing alone across the Pacific Ocean. Bora Bora. Suwarrow Atoll. Samoa

Initially I wanted to sail to Penrhyn, the northernmost Cook Islands. Instead, I end up in a Doldrum area, a stationary calm zone. New plan, new course. Instead of calm, it becomes stormy. I drop anchor in the middle of the ocean, in Suwarrow Atoll. But that's where the problems begin. I'm sailing alone on Reykja, a 35-year-old steel ketch. My route: from Bora Bora, via Suwarrow, to Samoa, in the middle of the Pacific Ocean.