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Korte broek Opprett
Waves break near shore because the water beneath them gets too shallow to support the wave’s motion. In deep water, a wave can travel with relatively little interaction with the seafloor. But as it moves into shallower water, the lower part of the wave begins to feel the bottom and slows down. The wave’s energy is still moving forward, so the wave gets shorter, steeper, and taller as it approaches the beach. Eventually, the top of the wave is moving too fast for the base to support it. The crest becomes unstable, pitches forward, and the wave breaks. That’s why waves often start breaking at a fairly consistent distance from shore - they are reaching the depth where the wave can no longer maintain its shape. The exact way a wave breaks depends on the wave size, period, and slope of the seafloor, which is why some beaches produce gentle spilling breakers while others create powerful plunging waves. #sailing #ocean #sea #boat