Here in Solo Sailor Atlantic Circuit Part 4, Mark and his modified Cape Dory 36 Swan continue their circle cruise of the Atlantic, sailing in November 2025 from Agadir, Morocco to Mindelo, Cape Verde. The next leg will be his return trans-Atlantic passage to the West Indies. A unique aspect of his voyage is that for auxiliary propulsion he is using a tilt-up 6kw electric outboard in a custom built well in the lazarette locker. Since it has very limited range he mainly uses it only to depart and enter harbor. On this passage he had persistent trade winds behind him and only a few hours of light winds so he did not need to motor at all once he cleared the harbor. For more videos on preparing his boat for this voyage, check out the Cape Dory 36 Refit Playlist on this channel. Marks blog about his journey from office worker in New York City to full-time sailor is at: https://tanken.gallery/ AtomVoyages.com

DIY Retractable Solar Panels on Speed Rail Arch - Cape Dory 30 Refit Part 4. To maximize solar power in the restricted space on this 30-foot Cape Dory cutter (with electric propulsion), we designed this no-weld/no-bend method for a DIY retractable solar array arch built from Speed Rail fittings, aluminum pipe, and heavy-duty stainless-steel drawer slides. The two extendable panels stow flush under the two fixed upper panels while maneuvering in a marina or for low windage when sailing offshore in heavy weather. They slide out on tracks to deploy when needed at anchor or in moderate conditions offshore. The arch is done but the wiring will be covered in a future video. Subscribe to follow the refit. For more sailboat projects, visit AtomVoyages.com Parts List: Eight pieces 6463-T66 schedule 40 polished anodized 1.25" pipe sold in two pieces 23' stock length. (we used about 36' total) $270 total. It's easiest to cut the pipe and angle on a chop saw but you can also cut it with an angle grinder or hack saw. We purchased two pieces 1.25" polished 6463 grade aluminum schedule 40 pipe in standard 23' lengths from our local wholesale supplier. At $135 each it was cheaper than ordering 8 pieces of cut lengths online. Bright polished anodized aluminum pipe is twice as expensive as 6061 non-anodized and if you don't have a local wholesaler then anodized pipe cost could be prohibitive, which is why most DIY builds choose non-anodized. In that case be prepared to let it weather into that dull oxidized appearance. Note that pipe (like this Schedule 40) is measured by its Nominal Inside Diameter (ID), while stainless steel tubing is measured by its Outside Diameter (OD). This 1.25-inch pipe has an OD of 1.66 inches. If you’re building a larger arch, you'll want to use 1.5-inch pipe (1.9" OD). We used Schedule 40 because it’s plenty strong, lighter, and less pricey than heavy-walled Schedule 80. Two pieces 6061-T6 3/16" x 2" x 62" angle bar (NOT anodized) sold in one piece 25' stock length $87. Anodized angle bar is hard to source and in this build it is not in a highly visible area so doesn't matter if it becomes oxidized on the surface. A stock 25' piece of angle bar is double what we needed but at $87 it was cheaper than buying two shorter pieces online. And we can use some of the leftover on other projects. Speed-rail fittings: 1. Four pieces 1.25" Tee-E $16.48 each https://www.buyrailings.com/shop/variant/07060-5e-tee-e-aluminum-magnesium-1-1-4-ips-12794 2. Four pieces 1.25" elbows $21.16 each https://www.buyrailings.com/shop/variant/07020-3-elbow-aluminum-magnesium-1-1-4-ips-12035 3. Four pieces 1.25" Rectangular Base Flange $22.34 each https://www.buyrailings.com/shop/variant/27170-47-rectangular-base-flange-aluminum-magnesium-1-1-4-ips-12476 4. Two sets stainless steel drawer slides, 27 9/16" closed length. McMaster-Carr Model: 13875A21 $80 each. Solar panels: Two 200 watt and two 100 watt N-type BougeRV 200w bi-facial panels. Because these are N-type bi-facial, shade tolerant, and wired in parallel, they will cope with partial shading better than standard single-sided P-type panels. Clamps and fasteners: We used two Garhauer Dinghy Davit Stern Rail Clamps 1″ to 1.25″ DD-SRC 1-1.25 $75 each. These tube clamps are not a perfect fit to 1.25" pipe but are still useable. You can special order these clamps for 1.5" tube for a better fit (model DD-SRC 1-1.5) or look elsewhere for different style cheaper clamps. Fasteners: 16 sets 3/8" stainless hex bolts sized for deck thickness and backing plates, nuts and washers for bases 12 pieces 1/4" x 3/4" flat head stainless machine screws for angles to pipes 20 pieces #10 x 1/2" flat head stainless machine screws for Tracks to angle bars 20 pieces #8 x 3/4" flat head stainless machine screws, nuts and washers, for tracks to solar panels 24 pieces 3/8-16 x 1/2" Allen head stainless cone point set screws to replace Speed Rail zinc-plated steel set screws AtomVoyages.com #DIYBoatProject #SailboatSolar #Speedrail #AtomVoyages

We continue the Cape Dory 30 cutter refit, adding modifications for living aboard and offshore voyaging. Here we remove the two original 30 gallon plastic water tanks which were leaking and were surrounded by a space wasting fiberglass hull liner and constructed two larger integral water tanks built into the hull. Also check the owners youtube channel Aboard the Flying Spur: https://www.youtube.com/@flyingspur/videos Materials used for one tank of approx. 40 gal. (151 L). Inside dimensions 47" L x 26" W (starboard side 24" W) x 13" H on inboard side tapering along hull to 3" H on outside: 1. 2.5 sheets of Diviycell H-80 5 lb density plain sheet, 3/8" thick x 24" x 48". $59 ea. fiberglasssupplydepot.com 2. Beckson 6" deck plate. 3. About 2.5 gal of epoxy resin needed of either a 2.5 gal kit, fast 4-1 hardener EPOX-635414 $162. Or 4 gal kit slow 3-1 hardener EPOX-6353156 $245. uscomposites.com 4. 5 qt (8 oz) Aerosil/Cabosil epoxy thickener FL-AER050 $11 uscomposites.com 5. One Beckson 6.5" Screw-Out Deck Plate DP60-W $26 Defender.com 6. Fiberglass - Use either 1208 biaxial which is composed of 12 oz per sq. yd. cloth stitched to a layer of 3/4oz per sq. ft. chopped mat for total weight of 18.75 oz per sq. yd. Or use a combination of 1208 and the lighter 10 oz E-glass regular fiberglass cloth tape in 4" and 6" width. You want the divinycell panels to be stiff like plywood when finished so when using 1208, one layer on each side is sufficient. When using 10 oz plain cloth use two layers each side. Amount needed will vary depending of type of cloth chosen. fiberglasssupplydepot.com 7. One 1/2" straight plastic thru-hull for tank outlet 8. One 3/4" 90 degree plastic thru-hull for vent 9. 1/2" and 3/4" SHIELDS RUBBER Series 162 Polyester Reinforced Clear PVC Tubing and clamps 10. Sika 291 sealant 11. One gal kit white Total Protect epoxy primer barrier coat $135 totalboat.com 12. One gal kit of Devoe Bar-Rust 233H $123 https://specialtycoatingsinc.com/products/bar-rust-233-off-white Or PPG Aquatapoxy A-61 (or A-6) . You only need about two qts for two coats but you can use leftover to coat bilge or lockers. Labor for each tank approx. 36 hours.

We continue refitting a Cape Dory 30 cutter, adding modifications for living aboard and offshore voyaging. Here we begin interior modifications including removing the fiberglass hull liner to rebuild the v-berth and chain locker with watertight collision bulkheads, redesign the clothes locker, head and galley, and address hull/deck joint leaks. Also check the owners youtube channel Aboard the Flying Spur: https://www.youtube.com/@flyingspur/videos

Mark continues his travels on his modified Cape Dory 36 Swan on the third leg of his Atlantic circle cruise, sailing from Horta, Azores in June 2025 to Praia da Vitoria on the island of Terceira. On August 25 he departed Azores for a 5 day passage to Porto Santo (Madeira). After a brief layover he made a passage to Agadir, Morocco in just under 4 days, completing his first Atlantic crossing. The next leg will be his passage from Morocco to Cape Verde. A unique aspect of this voyage is that for auxiliary propulsion he is using a tilt-up 6kw electric outboard in a custom built well in the lazarette locker. Since it has very limited range he mainly uses it only to depart and enter harbor. For more videos on preparing his boat for this voyage, check out the Cape Dory 36 Refit Playlist on this channel. Marks blog about his journey from office worker in New York City to full-time sailor is at: https://tanken.gallery/

Mark departs Bermuda on May 30, 2025 on his modified Cape Dory 36 Swan on the second leg of his planned Atlantic circle cruise. For auxiliary propulsion he is using a tilt-up 6kw electric outboard in a custom built well in the lazarette locker. Since it has very limited range he rarely uses it on passage - on this leg only to depart and enter harbor. The next leg will be his passage from Azores to Morocco. For more videos on preparing his boat for this voyage, check out the Cape Dory 36 Refit Playlist on this channel. Marks blog about his journey from office worker to full-time sailor is at: https://tanken.gallery/

Mark departs St Simons Island, Georgia in May 2025 for Bermuda on his modified Cape Dory 36 on leg one of his planned Atlantic circle cruise. For more videos on preparing his boat for this voyage, check out the Cape Dory 36 Refit Playlist on this channel. Marks blog about his journey from office worker to full-time sailor is at: https://tanken.gallery/

Follow as we begin refitting a Cape Dory 30 cutter and adding modifications for offshore voyaging. Also check the owners youtube channel Aboard the Flying Spur: https://www.youtube.com/@flyingspur/videos AtomVoyages.com

The Sandpiper 32 is a fiberglass round-bilged Sharpie, of which 17 were reportedly built by Marine Innovators in Florida. Designed to carry 1800 lbs. of iron ballast sealed in 200 lbs. of polyester bonding filler in a molded fiberglass grounding shoe which is integral to the hull and fiberglassed over inside the hull. The remaining 500 lbs. of recommended ballast (gear) is carried inside for trimming. Video by AtomVoyages.com LENGTH OVERALL 32' WATERLINE LENGTH 28'4" BEAM 8' HEADROOM 5`, AFT CABIN POP-TOP 6'+ FREE STANDING MASTS (for CAT SCHOONER) 32' and 26' ENGINE - Inboard or outboard motor DISPLACEMENT 7400 lbs. SAIL AREA (for CAT SCHOONER) 363 sq. ft. DRAFT - boards up 19" (we measured it as 24") DRAFT - boards down 4'6" Inboard electric propulsion system: https://www.annapolishybridmarine.com/thoosa-inboard-systems.php Below is designer and builder Walt Scott’s description of the Sandpiper: SANDPIPER has evolved from over 45 years of designing and sailing shoal draft boats. In addition I have spent many hours over the writings of Chapelle, L. Frances Herreshoff, Beebe, Colvin and other devotees of the sharpie. Finally, Munroe's. "THE COMMODORE'S STORY", and Gilpin's, "THE GOOD LITTLE SHIP", convinced me that what I needed for my own cruising boat here in the shoal waters of the west coast of Florida was a scaled down version of the Commodore's PRESTO. PRESTO was the first of a long line of round-bilged sharpies designed by Commodore Munroe for use in general transportation and salvage operations in the shallows of the Florida Keys from the 1880's into the twentieth century. They were derived from the original flat bottomed sharpies used for oyster tonging off New Haven in Long Island Sound. The long narrow flat bottom work boat existed in various forms along the entire Atlantic coast and around into the Gulf. They were easy to move with oars before the gasoline engine existed; their rigs used simple unstayed pole masts; they could carry a heavy load with little draft; they could be beached without damage; and they were inexpensive to build. A SANDPIPER hull is very similar in lines to PRESTO except that it displaces 7400 lbs. on a 28.3 ft. waterline instead of 17,000 lbs. on a 35.5 ft. waterline for PRESTO. This makes for an easier boat to move around on land and take home for winter storage. PRESTO carried 4 ½ tons of inside ballast. SANDPIPER carries 1800 lbs. of ballast sealed in 200 lbs. of polyester bonding filler in a molded fiberglass grounding shoe which is integral to the hull and fiberglassed over inside the hull. The remaining 500 lbs. of ballast (gear) is carried inside for trimming. The low ballast center of gravity combined with the light weight rig and the low cabin profile result in a positive righting moment even in a 90 degree knockdown. PRESTO carried a large heavy centerboard which took up a lot of space in the cabin. SANDPIPER instead has two bilgeboards which swing into trunks which are integrally molded into the hull under the berths. The use of bilgeboards not only eliminates the internal space problem but it reduces the vulnerability of the slot to damage or jamming from grounding. Sharpies, being long and narrow, favor a divided rig to get sufficient sail area along with a low center of effort and a low rig center of gravity. The SANDPIPER rig is a cat schooner rig with unstayed masts of aluminum. [This boat is a schooner but not unstayed cat rig]. One of the disadvantages of the sharpie has always been lack of headroom. With the relatively narrow and shallow hull it is necessary to keep the cabin weight low to maintain good stability. With the help of the arced bottom I have been able to attain a minimum of 5 ft. head­room in SANDPIPER. For additional headroom at anchor, a tight fitting pop-top spans the main cabin area, providing 6 ft. of headroom or even more if required. A seal around the sides can be fabricated of vinyl coated cloth with snaps and Velcro bug proofing.

After a year long refit the Cape Dory 36 Swan is complete and sets sail for a three month cruise to Bahamas and then back to Brunswick, GA briefly. In July they head north offshore some 900 miles to New England with one stop at Cape Lookout Bight, NC. Video by James Baldwin and Mark Meredith For details of Swan's refit modifications see the first five videos on our Cape Dory 36 playlist. For more info about Mark's journey, check his blog at: https://tanken.gallery/ Music: Sail Away by David Gray, cover by Chris Kläfford

We test two portable gas generators - The Honda EU2200i, which has an 1,800 watt continuous run rating, on a Cape Dory 27 sailboat to charge the 48v lithium battery bank that supplies the 3kw electric motor - and the cheaper Powersmart 2500, which has a 1900 watt continuous run rating on a Cape Dory 36 with 6kw motor. Honda EU2200i 2200 Watt Portable Inverter Generator https://www.amazon.com/Honda-2200-Watt-Companion-Generator-Co-Minder/dp/B08YJP5HC7/ref=sr_1_1?th=1 Powersmart 2500 watt portable gas generator https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089FDFDH5?th=1 Accessories: Regardless which model generator you select you may want these two accessories. Other than the typical 15A household extension cord one item you will need is a neutral to ground adapter plug that you plug into one of the AC outlets on the front of the generator. This is needed to prevent the generator shutting down due to wrong polarity if you plug the extension cord into your boat or RV shore power inlet rather than running it direct to the appliance you want to power. The other item you might need is a 15A male to 30A female adapter for connecting standard household extension cord from generator to boat's shore power receptacle. Ground to neutral adapter plug needed: https://www.amazon.com/Southwire-Company-LLC-44400-Generator/dp/B07F4R7BDL/ 15A male to 30A female adapter for connecting standard household extension cord from generator to boat's shore power receptacle: https://www.amazon.com/Marinco-ParkPower-Straight-Blade-One-Piece-Twist-Lock/dp/B076F9N6JY/ref=sr_1_33 12 or 14 gauge 120v extension cord. AtomVoyages.com

The modifications to this Cape Dory 27 "Ma Ha" Voyager Edition sailboat were completed in 2023 by Cruising Yachts Services in Brunswick, GA. Voyager Edition is used for boats we have gone through thoroughly top to bottom making repairs and modifications to make them more suitable for offshore voyages, including new sails from Rolly Tasker National Sails, new rigging, self-steering, integral water tanks, collision bulkheads, plumbing, electrics, ground tackle, and many more. Check the Cape Dory 27 playlist for more details of the projects shown here. Our sea trials on the ePropulsion Navy EVO 3.0 electric outboard motor and Tohatsu 6 hp Sailpro gas motor showed the Tohatsu pushed the boat at 5.6 knots. We gained about a 1/2 knot from when it had an inboard diesel engine by not dragging the inboard prop and by eliminating turbulence by filling the prop aperture in keel and rudder. The increased rudder area by filling the aperture enhances the steering. The electric motor gave us 5.15 knots top speed which is not quite as good as the 6 hp Tohatsu but still acceptable since our goal was at least 5 knots. The graph in the video shows the speed/watts/range results which show that the range with one 80AH battery is between 6 to 21 nautical miles depending on throttle setting. The regeneration under sail was disappointing. In our first test we got 45 watts battery charging at 4.5 knots sailing speed but more typically we got less than 40 watts at 5 knots boat speed. Despite the success of our modifications this is not intended to be an endorsement for replacing your inboard diesel with an outboard motor. We have significantly less power available to push into wind and waves. The top speeds we achieved above 5 knots will fall off quickly when going against headwinds and waves. It is intended as a low power alternative propulsion system for keen sailors rather than the more common motorsailing yachtsman who only raises sail when convenient. It takes about one hour in calm waters to swap out the electric and gas motors so it's not something you want to do frequently. But the option is there when needed. We envision using the electric for most situations but swapping to the gas motor for long trips in waterways or in the Panama Canal. Dual propulsion systems also serve as a backup in case of a breakdown. Another downside is the quality of the Epropulsion components we recieved and some issues with the design features. Within a few hours of testing the E80 48 volt lithium battery became faulty as well as the remote throttle diplay. Both were replaced under warranty after lengthy delays. Quality control should be better. Components from Epropulsion dealer Annapolis Hybrid Marine: Motor: Evo 3.0 $2,999 long shaft (53.6 lbs, 62.5A, 10.2″ × 6.7″ 2-blade composite propeller, static thrust 132 lbs) Or for more power you can instead order the Navy 6.0 with E175 battery. Battery: E80 4kw (80AH) LiFePO4 (Lithium Iron Phosphate) $2,299. The manual states you must use this ePropulsion battery in order to enable the regeneration charging under sail feature. 120v AC to 48V DC battery charger: Epropulsion AC battery charger (20A) Evo Side Mount Throttle Control: $499 DC-DC converter for charging the 12v house bank from the 48v motor battery: 9 amp Victron Energy Orion-Tr 48/12-9A DC-DC Isolated Converter $67 online or from Annapolis Hybrid Marine. . Epropulsion Y-type communication cable to connect motor, side mount controller and battery. Epropulsion battery remote switch. If using two batteries in parallel, order e-battery y-type communication cable and a second 1.5 or 2m comm cable between batteries. A "communication terminator" is not needed if using a remote switch because it is built in to the switch cable. Extra battery cables and fuses for your particular installation. Solar battery charging options: 48v Solar controllers: Boost MPPT Genasun GVB-8-48-Li-FF: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0062/2959/0114/files/Genasun_GVB-8_Manual-rev.4-2018.pdf $190 https://www.amazon.com/Genasun-GVB-8-Li-56-8V-Controller-LiFePO4-Batteries/dp/B089YW18XF Or use this less expensive 12 - 48V 300w boost MPPT for $50. On a Cape Dory 36 we used two for a 400W panel array: https://www.amazon.com/SUNYIMA-Controller-Electric-Charging-Regulator/dp/B0B7WWY5S3/ 12v solar controller: Victron Energy SmartSolar MPPT 100V 20 amp 12-24-48 Volt Solar Charge Controller (Bluetooth) $150 https://www.amazon.com/Victron-SmartSolar-MPPT-Controller-Bluetooth/dp/B075NPQHQK/ref=psdc_2236627011_t5_B074P39MQM Two transfer switches for solar charging 12v and 48v banks: Szliyands Universal Rotary Changeover Switch LW26-32, 32A, 3 Position, 8 Terminal $16 each. These switches are only rated for AC current so if using larger solar panels you might need a DC rated transfer switch. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088PHPHZC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00 Music: The Rain Song (cover by Chiara Kilching)

How to charge both 12-volt and 48-volt lithium batteries from 12-volt solar panels using transfer switches. Note: Because these transfer switches are rated for AC current only, over time with repeated DC switching under load the switches could become faulty. Once the switches are on they have no issue carrying the current, it's just that in theory, switching them repeatedly under load over time may damage them. My feeling is that because 200 watts of solar is a low arcing resistive load rather than the higher arcing inductive loads of say an electric motor, that there is no problem. But to ensure that does not happen, the transfer switches should only be switched when there is no solar output on them, such as at night or during daylight by placing a sheet over the solar panels temporarily. Another way to do it is to install an on/off switch on the solar input positive line before it reaches the transfer switch and then turn the input switch off temporarily to change the transfer switch. Charging 12v house bank from 48v motor battery: 20 Amp Victron Energy Orion-Tr 48/12-20A DC-DC Isolated Converter $118. https://www.solar-electric.com/victron-energy-orion-tr-48-12-20a-dc-dc-converter.html 48v boost solar controller: Sunyima 48V 300w boost MPPT. I bought these on ebay for $31 each but they are now on Amazon for $40. We used two for two 200W panels: https://www.amazon.com/SUNYIMA-Controller-Electric-Charging-Regulator/dp/B0B7WWY5S3/ 12v solar controller: Victron Energy SmartSolar MPPT 100V 30 amp 12/24-Volt Solar Charge Controller (Bluetooth) $128: https://www.amazon.com/SmartSolar-MPPT-100-Charge-Controller/dp/B073ZJ3L13/?th=1 Two transfer switches for solar charging 12v and 48v banks: Szliyands Universal Rotary Changeover Switch LW26-32, 32A, 3 Position, 8 Terminal $16 each. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088PHPHZC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?th=1 We can be reached at atomvoyages.com. If you own a classic sailboat and want to share your experiences or have questions on fitting out, consider joining the Plastic Classic Forum at https://plasticclassicforum.com/forum/ I'm a moderator on the forum and answer questions there. James Baldwin

We replaced the old diesel inboard engine with an electric drive motor while also having a gas outboard available to extend range when needed. We tested the Epropulsion Navy EVO 6.0 electric outboard motor and Tohatsu 9.8 hp extra-long shaft gas motors on a Cape Dory 36 sailboat of approx. 17,000 lb loaded displacement. The Tohatsu 9.8 pushed the boat at 5.9 kt in calm waters. We gained about a 1/2 knot over an earlier test by not dragging the inboard prop and by eliminating turbulence from the prop aperture. The electric motor with composite low pitch (high thrust) prop gave us 5.7 kt top speed. Not as good as its advertised 10hp gas motor equivalence but still acceptable since our goal was at least 5k. The electric motor is 15 lbs lighter than the Tohatsu. The high pitch (low thrust) prop gave us 5.35 knots which is about 6.5% slower than the low pitch prop. The construction of the outboard well was covered in this earlier video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TGyJH2vHazQ Components: 1. Electric motor: Evo 6.0 $3,599 long shaft (79.4 lbs, 125A, 3-blade composite propeller, static thrust 279 lbs) 2. Gas motor: Tohatsu 9.8 HP MFS9.8BSPROEFUL $2,850 https://onlineoutboards.com/collections/tohatsu-9-8-hp-outboards 3. Battery: E175 9kw (175AH) LiFePO4 (Lithium Iron Phosphate) $4,399. This Epropulsion battery is required to enable the regeneration charging under sail feature. 4. 120v AC to 48V DC battery charger: Epropulsion AC battery charger (20A) $480. The 20A charger takes about 8 hours to recharge the battery but a 40A charger is available to cut that in half. 5. Evo Side Mount Throttle Control $499. 6. Two 00-0601-01 Communication cables 5m and one Y-type communication cable to connect motor, side mount controller and battery $90 each. 7. Epropulsion battery remote on/off switch $149. 8. Extra battery cables and fuses for your installation. 9. Charging 12v house bank from 48v motor battery: 20 Amp Victron Energy Orion-Tr 48/12-20A DC-DC Isolated Converter $118. https://www.solar-electric.com/victron-energy-orion-tr-48-12-20a-dc-dc-converter.html Solar Charging: 10. 48v Solar controller: 48V 300w boost MPPT for $31 each. We used two for two 200W panels: https://www.ebay.com/itm/314132016491 11. 12v solar controller: Victron Energy SmartSolar MPPT 100V 30 amp 12/24-Volt Solar Charge Controller (Bluetooth) $224 https://www.amazon.com/SmartSolar-MPPT-100-Charge-Controller/dp/B073ZJ3L13/ref=psdc_2236627011_t2_B075NPQHQK 12. Two transfer switches for solar charging 12v and 48v banks: Szliyands Universal Rotary Changeover Switch LW26-32, 32A, 3 Position, 8 Terminal $16 each. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088PHPHZC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00 We can be reached at atomvoyages.com or if you have a classic sailboat and want to share your experiences or have questions on fitting out, consider joining the Plastic Classic Forum at https://plasticclassicforum.com/forum/ I'm a moderator on the forum and answer questions there.

Preparing and applying antifouling, topsides and deck paint, interior paint, and installing the deck hardware on a Cape Dory 27 Sailboat. More info on preparing small sailboats for cruising and offshore passages can be found at atomvoyages.com. If you own an older sailboat you can post your experience and questions on the Plastic Classic Forum. I'm a moderator for it and answer questions there: https://plasticclassicforum.com/forum/

We install a Cape Horn Varuna windvane self-steering on a Cape Dory 27. More info: http://caphorn.com/en/welcome/

Installation Instructions for Tower in a Box Sail Arch: Our Cape Dory 36 deck dimensions fit the Offset Sail Arch model TIB101.5/02.5/435 which adjusts to fit 78” to 90” width bases forward; 68” to 80” aft. Refer to the following page for model sizes: https://www.atlantictowers.com/products_sail_arch.php 1. Measure your preferred height of arch and the width of four bases according to the planned location. The upper arch goes aft the backstay. Angle of legs from deck is 55-60 degrees. We decided on 6'2" headroom under the arch. Distance between forward and aft legs at deck is 24". Contact Atlantic Towers to confirm which model is suitable. Tell them size of solar panels you will use and order their solar mount kit or build your own. We used their kit with two 200 watt Renogy solar panels. The components weighed about 90 lbs plus about 10 lbs for the solar brackets and 52 lbs for the solar panels which we purchased separately. 2. Check overall width of arch after assembling it on the ground by inserting the two halves of the arch into the center connector, called the bridge. Mark the two sides of the tubes with tape 10" back from their ends so you know when they are fully inserted into the 20" wide bridge. Tape the bridge to tubes and measure width of bases. To get proper preload tension to stabilize the installed arch, add 3-5" to your original deck placement measurement. Tape on foot bases and deck mount brackets. Measure height of arch. Trim the bottom of the legs to required length using a heavy-duty tubing cutter, hacksaw or angle grinder. Disassemble and cut upper tubes to correct width. File cut edges so no burrs exist on tubes. 3. If certain of width measurement you can reassemble legs to the bridge and drill and bolt with 8 included fasteners or tape together. Attach a strap to lowest horizontal cross beam and tension until base width matches your deck position. Hoist arch onto boat with mainsail halyard over the stern. With pivoting eye fittings taped on to tubes and u-shaped base plates bolted to them, set arch into desired position, and confirm overall width and height. Check by eye that arch is perpendicular to boat centerline and use a level to check the top fore and aft and side to side. Level it by trimming base legs or by adding differing height spacer blocks under the feet. 4. Drill deck holes for 16 pieces 1/4" x 2" flat head stainless machine screws. Drill a 3/16" drain hole just above solid eye in the aft side of each tube for water drainage. Bolt tube eyes to bases and temporarily bolt bases to deck. 5. The instructions say to drill and tap tubes to eyes with included fasteners and epoxy together but we decided to drill for one 1/4" thru-bolt on each leg and install with sealant. For now just dry fit them and remove to add sealant or epoxy later. 6. On a flat surface, place two solar panels bottom up and align solar panel brackets flush with outside of solar panel frames, drill and install a 1/4" x 1.5" stainless hex bolt (not included) near each end where holes line up with existing holes in panel frame. Set panels on arch, align with boat centerline and leave space between panels for backstay clearance. Mark location on arch tubes then remove panels. Drill arch for four bolts that pass vertically all the way through the tubes so that bolts will align with solar panel frame. This is done by placing holes 1 1/8" in from outside of brackets and 7/8" from inside. The included 3/8" diameter bolts seemed larger than needed and were too short for our installation so we used 8 pieces 5/16" x 4.5" stainless hex bolts. 7. Drill 5/8" holes in aft arch tubes under where solar panels will be placed. Remove aft leg tube eyes and drill another 5/8" hole on the aft side of each aft leg about 3" from bottom of tubes. Remove burrs with file or Dremel drum disc. 8. Place solar panels on arch, clamp in place, and drill up from bottom through two sets of four holes in arch, drilling thru channel mounts and solar panel frames. (Use a piece of plywood between solar panel and frame to prevent damage from drill bit.) Bolt together with 1/4" bolts and washers. Place the included curved anodized aluminum washers under arch tube and use nylon washers between stainless fasteners and aluminum, including under the nuts on solar panel frame. You can add washers between arch and solar mount to level them. The number of spacer washers will determine if you need 4" or 4.5" bolts. 9. Tilt arch forward and remove aft tube eyes to ease installation of wires. Use a plumber's snake to run messenger line and pull solar cables through from top. Install cable clam on deck. Apply silicone sealant around wires where they pass through arch tubes to prevent chafe. 10. Bolt solar panels to arch. Seal deck bases bolts with butyl or other sealant and included backing plates.

We remove the diesel engine and build a custom outboard well locker in the enlarged lazarette to hold an ePropulsion Navy EVO 6.0 electric outboard motor. The electric motor can be swapped out for a Tohatsu 9.8HP gas motor if longer range is needed for extended trips up the east coast ICW or transiting the Panama Canal or as backup in case any of the components of the electric system fail when out cruising away from replacement parts. This system is not a comparable replacement for the ample propulsion of a large diesel engine. It is a low-powered, short-range alternative that requires a higher level of patience and seamanship skills. The 6kw electric outboard is advertised as 10hp gas equivalent but in case it doesn't live up to expectations or proves unreliable we have the gas outboard option. And since the electric motor's large 48 volt battery can directly charge the smaller 12 volt house battery, it provides enlarged battery capacity even when the gas motor is installed. We also converted from wheel steering to a simple tiller. We reversed the slope of the cockpit footwell so that it drains aft above the waterline, which eliminates two more seacocks. And we added 210 lbs of lead ballast to the bilge to compensate for loss of weight from the inboard diesel. People often ask me if a tilting outboard well is suitable for their particular boat. Unfortunately, the geometry of most boats won’t allow it. The boat needs to have a large lazarette locker, an overhanging transom, and certain minimum dimensions between the transom and the tiller head strap on top the rudder shaft. Or if you have wheel steering, suitable clearance between transom and emergency tiller. You can read more about my outboard well design at: https://atomvoyages.com/articles/the-improved-outboard-well/ Update: 12 July 2023 Here is the latest video showing the results of initial sea trials with both motors: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OVXGSDtYFhw

We install a compost toilet on a Cape Dory 27 sailboat. Space was too tight for a commercial compost toilet such as Airhead or Nature’s Head and we wanted something less complicated with no stirring mechanism. Parts: Lewmar hatch vent - $68 https://www.westmarine.com/lewmar-cabin-hatch-vent-trim-kit-P024_720_004_502.html Household toilet seat with no slam slow closing lid - $21 Noctua computer fan - $15 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VXTANZ4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title 1.25” fan vent hose Fan shroud (find or make two plastic or wood twist knobs to hold in place) - $38 https://airheadtoilet.com/product/extra-fan-shroud-right-angle/?v=7516fd43adaa Fan switch and wire https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D285PLL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title 1/4" x ½" foam weatherstrip to seal around fan in shroud Urine diverter - GBP 50 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324879529268 1 gal. urine bottle - $34 for 4-pack https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09VG146LW/ ½” plastic Thru-hull to drain urine diverter into urine bottle - $8 (Grind head to fit and seal with caulking) https://www.amazon.com/Perko-0328DP4-Thru-Hull-Marine-Connector/dp/B0000AZ6BX 5 gal bucket ½” marine plywood, 1x2 pine framing, mahogany or teak trim Almond Formica Hook, barrel bolt, and hinges for lid Elastic strap and 2 eye straps Sealant Epoxy resin, silica thickener Primer and paint Pine pellets or other compost material - $7 for 40lb bag https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/tractor-supply-pine-pellet-stall-bedding-40-lb Use: To use the bucket you can either line it with a plastic bag for disposal ashore or use no bag for dumping offshore. First load it with a few cups of dry compost material such as dry coconut fibers or the inexpensive horse bedding pine pellets from Tractor Supply. After each use you toss in another cup or two of pellets to help cover and absorb any moisture. But you don’t need to use very much because if the exhaust fan is left on there will not be any smell and it will dry out over time. The computer fan uses very little power so it should not be an issue to leave it on. If you don’t notice any odor then you could leave the fan off. The reason the common commercial compost toilets are so complicated and users often report there is no smell even without a fan is because they use more compost material and a stirring mechanism to buy the waste like in cat in a litter box. With the fan on there is no need to worry about all that. Here are sketches for building your own: https://plasticclassicforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=53428#p53428

This 1980 Cape Dory 36 was brought to us to assist the owner refitting the boat for offshore passage making. The extensive job list includes wheel to tiller conversion, diesel engine removal with added tilt-up outboard well with electric outboard motor propulsion, reducing the number of seacocks and electric pumps, adding a dry toilet, improved ground tackle, new plumbing, electrics, sails, rigging and much more. Regarding the outboard well modification which will be shown in a future episode: this design has been proven during over 20 years of design improvements and ocean crossings on many boats in the 28-32' range. The old diesel on this boat had to be rebuilt or replaced. The owner was initially inclined to sail engineless with just a sculling oar for the challenge and pleasure of the sport as well as the practicalities of becoming a better sailor, and not wanting the problems associated with a space-wasting, foul smelling, expensive diesel. He wanted to reduce potentially boat-sinking below waterline holes, including prop shaft and water intake, to have better access and storage to the interior, without risk of an inaccessible fouled prop or the drag associated with it under sail. He eventually decided on a compromise between diesel and sculling oar. My outboard well design will accommodate either a a 9.8hp gas Tohatsu SailPro or a 6kw ePropulsion Navy EVO 6.0 (supposedly 10hp equivalent) electric outboard with regeneration feature to recharge the 48v battery under sail. Our goal is to have an enclosed outboard motor installation that tilts up for drag-free and snag-free sailing, that will propel the boat at least 5 knots in calm water, and that has some ability to motor at lesser speed into moderate wind or light chop. If you need more performance then that then this is not right for you. My experience tells me there is no problem to acheive this with a 9.8hp gas motor. It should be the same result for the 6kw electric motor but will have to await sea trials to confirm. The gas motor is available as backup to the vulnerable electronics of the electric motor as well as a way to increase range if he decides to make a long inland cruise or transit the Panama Canal. While this is something of an experiment to see how well this sailor's skills and needs on such a large boat will match the limited propulsion available, this is going to be a huge improvement over a sculling oar no matter that it falls short of diesel performance. In any case, a larger gas motor would not fit in the lazarette space available. More info on my tilt-up outboard motor well and it's suitability for various boats is given in the following article: https://atomvoyages.com/articles/the-improved-outboard-well/ We can be reached at atomvoyages.com or if you have a classic sailboat and want to share your experiences or have questions on fitting out, consider joining the Plastic Classic Forum at https://plasticclassicforum.com/forum/ I'm a moderator on the forum and answer questions there.