The Sandpiper 32 is a fiberglass round-bilged Sharpie, of which 17 were reportedly built by Marine Innovators in Florida. Designed to carry 1800 lbs. of iron ballast sealed in 200 lbs. of polyester bonding filler in a molded fiberglass grounding shoe which is integral to the hull and fiberglassed over inside the hull. The remaining 500 lbs. of recommended ballast (gear) is carried inside for trimming. Video by AtomVoyages.com LENGTH OVERALL 32' WATERLINE LENGTH 28'4" BEAM 8' HEADROOM 5`, AFT CABIN POP-TOP 6'+ FREE STANDING MASTS (for CAT SCHOONER) 32' and 26' ENGINE - Inboard or outboard motor DISPLACEMENT 7400 lbs. SAIL AREA (for CAT SCHOONER) 363 sq. ft. DRAFT - boards up 19" (we measured it as 24") DRAFT - boards down 4'6" Inboard electric propulsion system: https://www.annapolishybridmarine.com/thoosa-inboard-systems.php Below is designer and builder Walt Scott’s description of the Sandpiper: SANDPIPER has evolved from over 45 years of designing and sailing shoal draft boats. In addition I have spent many hours over the writings of Chapelle, L. Frances Herreshoff, Beebe, Colvin and other devotees of the sharpie. Finally, Munroe's. "THE COMMODORE'S STORY", and Gilpin's, "THE GOOD LITTLE SHIP", convinced me that what I needed for my own cruising boat here in the shoal waters of the west coast of Florida was a scaled down version of the Commodore's PRESTO. PRESTO was the first of a long line of round-bilged sharpies designed by Commodore Munroe for use in general transportation and salvage operations in the shallows of the Florida Keys from the 1880's into the twentieth century. They were derived from the original flat bottomed sharpies used for oyster tonging off New Haven in Long Island Sound. The long narrow flat bottom work boat existed in various forms along the entire Atlantic coast and around into the Gulf. They were easy to move with oars before the gasoline engine existed; their rigs used simple unstayed pole masts; they could carry a heavy load with little draft; they could be beached without damage; and they were inexpensive to build. A SANDPIPER hull is very similar in lines to PRESTO except that it displaces 7400 lbs. on a 28.3 ft. waterline instead of 17,000 lbs. on a 35.5 ft. waterline for PRESTO. This makes for an easier boat to move around on land and take home for winter storage. PRESTO carried 4 ½ tons of inside ballast. SANDPIPER carries 1800 lbs. of ballast sealed in 200 lbs. of polyester bonding filler in a molded fiberglass grounding shoe which is integral to the hull and fiberglassed over inside the hull. The remaining 500 lbs. of ballast (gear) is carried inside for trimming. The low ballast center of gravity combined with the light weight rig and the low cabin profile result in a positive righting moment even in a 90 degree knockdown. PRESTO carried a large heavy centerboard which took up a lot of space in the cabin. SANDPIPER instead has two bilgeboards which swing into trunks which are integrally molded into the hull under the berths. The use of bilgeboards not only eliminates the internal space problem but it reduces the vulnerability of the slot to damage or jamming from grounding. Sharpies, being long and narrow, favor a divided rig to get sufficient sail area along with a low center of effort and a low rig center of gravity. The SANDPIPER rig is a cat schooner rig with unstayed masts of aluminum. [This boat is a schooner but not unstayed cat rig]. One of the disadvantages of the sharpie has always been lack of headroom. With the relatively narrow and shallow hull it is necessary to keep the cabin weight low to maintain good stability. With the help of the arced bottom I have been able to attain a minimum of 5 ft. head­room in SANDPIPER. For additional headroom at anchor, a tight fitting pop-top spans the main cabin area, providing 6 ft. of headroom or even more if required. A seal around the sides can be fabricated of vinyl coated cloth with snaps and Velcro bug proofing.

After a year long refit the Cape Dory 36 Swan is complete and sets sail for a three month cruise to Bahamas and then back to Brunswick, GA briefly. In July they head north offshore some 900 miles to New England with one stop at Cape Lookout Bight, NC. Video by James Baldwin and Mark Meredith For details of Swan's refit modifications see the first five videos on our Cape Dory 36 playlist. For more info about Mark's journey, check his blog at: https://tanken.gallery/ Music: Sail Away by David Gray, cover by Chris Kläfford

We test two portable gas generators - The Honda EU2200i, which has an 1,800 watt continuous run rating, on a Cape Dory 27 sailboat to charge the 48v lithium battery bank that supplies the 3kw electric motor - and the cheaper Powersmart 2500, which has a 1900 watt continuous run rating on a Cape Dory 36 with 6kw motor. Honda EU2200i 2200 Watt Portable Inverter Generator https://www.amazon.com/Honda-2200-Watt-Companion-Generator-Co-Minder/dp/B08YJP5HC7/ref=sr_1_1?th=1 Powersmart 2500 watt portable gas generator https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089FDFDH5?th=1 Accessories: Regardless which model generator you select you may want these two accessories. Other than the typical 15A household extension cord one item you will need is a neutral to ground adapter plug that you plug into one of the AC outlets on the front of the generator. This is needed to prevent the generator shutting down due to wrong polarity if you plug the extension cord into your boat or RV shore power inlet rather than running it direct to the appliance you want to power. The other item you might need is a 15A male to 30A female adapter for connecting standard household extension cord from generator to boat's shore power receptacle. Ground to neutral adapter plug needed: https://www.amazon.com/Southwire-Company-LLC-44400-Generator/dp/B07F4R7BDL/ 15A male to 30A female adapter for connecting standard household extension cord from generator to boat's shore power receptacle: https://www.amazon.com/Marinco-ParkPower-Straight-Blade-One-Piece-Twist-Lock/dp/B076F9N6JY/ref=sr_1_33 12 or 14 gauge 120v extension cord. AtomVoyages.com

The modifications to this Cape Dory 27 "Ma Ha" Voyager Edition sailboat were completed in 2023 by Cruising Yachts Services in Brunswick, GA. Voyager Edition is used for boats we have gone through thoroughly top to bottom making repairs and modifications to make them more suitable for offshore voyages, including new sails from Rolly Tasker National Sails, new rigging, self-steering, integral water tanks, collision bulkheads, plumbing, electrics, ground tackle, and many more. Check the Cape Dory 27 playlist for more details of the projects shown here. Our sea trials on the ePropulsion Navy EVO 3.0 electric outboard motor and Tohatsu 6 hp Sailpro gas motor showed the Tohatsu pushed the boat at 5.6 knots. We gained about a 1/2 knot from when it had an inboard diesel engine by not dragging the inboard prop and by eliminating turbulence by filling the prop aperture in keel and rudder. The increased rudder area by filling the aperture enhances the steering. The electric motor gave us 5.15 knots top speed which is not quite as good as the 6 hp Tohatsu but still acceptable since our goal was at least 5 knots. The graph in the video shows the speed/watts/range results which show that the range with one 80AH battery is between 6 to 21 nautical miles depending on throttle setting. The regeneration under sail was disappointing. In our first test we got 45 watts battery charging at 4.5 knots sailing speed but more typically we got less than 40 watts at 5 knots boat speed. Despite the success of our modifications this is not intended to be an endorsement for replacing your inboard diesel with an outboard motor. We have significantly less power available to push into wind and waves. The top speeds we achieved above 5 knots will fall off quickly when going against headwinds and waves. It is intended as a low power alternative propulsion system for keen sailors rather than the more common motorsailing yachtsman who only raises sail when convenient. It takes about one hour in calm waters to swap out the electric and gas motors so it's not something you want to do frequently. But the option is there when needed. We envision using the electric for most situations but swapping to the gas motor for long trips in waterways or in the Panama Canal. Dual propulsion systems also serve as a backup in case of a breakdown. Another downside is the quality of the Epropulsion components we recieved and some issues with the design features. Within a few hours of testing the E80 48 volt lithium battery became faulty as well as the remote throttle diplay. Both were replaced under warranty after lengthy delays. Quality control should be better. Components from Epropulsion dealer Annapolis Hybrid Marine: Motor: Evo 3.0 $2,999 long shaft (53.6 lbs, 62.5A, 10.2″ × 6.7″ 2-blade composite propeller, static thrust 132 lbs) Or for more power you can instead order the Navy 6.0 with E175 battery. Battery: E80 4kw (80AH) LiFePO4 (Lithium Iron Phosphate) $2,299. The manual states you must use this ePropulsion battery in order to enable the regeneration charging under sail feature. 120v AC to 48V DC battery charger: Epropulsion AC battery charger (20A) Evo Side Mount Throttle Control: $499 DC-DC converter for charging the 12v house bank from the 48v motor battery: 9 amp Victron Energy Orion-Tr 48/12-9A DC-DC Isolated Converter $67 online or from Annapolis Hybrid Marine. . Epropulsion Y-type communication cable to connect motor, side mount controller and battery. Epropulsion battery remote switch. If using two batteries in parallel, order e-battery y-type communication cable and a second 1.5 or 2m comm cable between batteries. A "communication terminator" is not needed if using a remote switch because it is built in to the switch cable. Extra battery cables and fuses for your particular installation. Solar battery charging options: 48v Solar controllers: Boost MPPT Genasun GVB-8-48-Li-FF: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0062/2959/0114/files/Genasun_GVB-8_Manual-rev.4-2018.pdf $190 https://www.amazon.com/Genasun-GVB-8-Li-56-8V-Controller-LiFePO4-Batteries/dp/B089YW18XF Or use this less expensive 12 - 48V 300w boost MPPT for $50. On a Cape Dory 36 we used two for a 400W panel array: https://www.amazon.com/SUNYIMA-Controller-Electric-Charging-Regulator/dp/B0B7WWY5S3/ 12v solar controller: Victron Energy SmartSolar MPPT 100V 20 amp 12-24-48 Volt Solar Charge Controller (Bluetooth) $150 https://www.amazon.com/Victron-SmartSolar-MPPT-Controller-Bluetooth/dp/B075NPQHQK/ref=psdc_2236627011_t5_B074P39MQM Two transfer switches for solar charging 12v and 48v banks: Szliyands Universal Rotary Changeover Switch LW26-32, 32A, 3 Position, 8 Terminal $16 each. These switches are only rated for AC current so if using larger solar panels you might need a DC rated transfer switch. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088PHPHZC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00 Music: The Rain Song (cover by Chiara Kilching)

How to charge both 12-volt and 48-volt lithium batteries from 12-volt solar panels using transfer switches. Note: Because these transfer switches are rated for AC current only, over time with repeated DC switching under load the switches could become faulty. Once the switches are on they have no issue carrying the current, it's just that in theory, switching them repeatedly under load over time may damage them. My feeling is that because 200 watts of solar is a low arcing resistive load rather than the higher arcing inductive loads of say an electric motor, that there is no problem. But to ensure that does not happen, the transfer switches should only be switched when there is no solar output on them, such as at night or during daylight by placing a sheet over the solar panels temporarily. Another way to do it is to install an on/off switch on the solar input positive line before it reaches the transfer switch and then turn the input switch off temporarily to change the transfer switch. Charging 12v house bank from 48v motor battery: 20 Amp Victron Energy Orion-Tr 48/12-20A DC-DC Isolated Converter $118. https://www.solar-electric.com/victron-energy-orion-tr-48-12-20a-dc-dc-converter.html 48v boost solar controller: Sunyima 48V 300w boost MPPT. I bought these on ebay for $31 each but they are now on Amazon for $40. We used two for two 200W panels: https://www.amazon.com/SUNYIMA-Controller-Electric-Charging-Regulator/dp/B0B7WWY5S3/ 12v solar controller: Victron Energy SmartSolar MPPT 100V 30 amp 12/24-Volt Solar Charge Controller (Bluetooth) $128: https://www.amazon.com/SmartSolar-MPPT-100-Charge-Controller/dp/B073ZJ3L13/?th=1 Two transfer switches for solar charging 12v and 48v banks: Szliyands Universal Rotary Changeover Switch LW26-32, 32A, 3 Position, 8 Terminal $16 each. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088PHPHZC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?th=1 We can be reached at atomvoyages.com. If you own a classic sailboat and want to share your experiences or have questions on fitting out, consider joining the Plastic Classic Forum at https://plasticclassicforum.com/forum/ I'm a moderator on the forum and answer questions there. James Baldwin

We replaced the old diesel inboard engine with an electric drive motor while also having a gas outboard available to extend range when needed. We tested the Epropulsion Navy EVO 6.0 electric outboard motor and Tohatsu 9.8 hp extra-long shaft gas motors on a Cape Dory 36 sailboat of approx. 17,000 lb loaded displacement. The Tohatsu 9.8 pushed the boat at 5.9 kt in calm waters. We gained about a 1/2 knot over an earlier test by not dragging the inboard prop and by eliminating turbulence from the prop aperture. The electric motor with composite low pitch (high thrust) prop gave us 5.7 kt top speed. Not as good as its advertised 10hp gas motor equivalence but still acceptable since our goal was at least 5k. The electric motor is 15 lbs lighter than the Tohatsu. The high pitch (low thrust) prop gave us 5.35 knots which is about 6.5% slower than the low pitch prop. The construction of the outboard well was covered in this earlier video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TGyJH2vHazQ Components: 1. Electric motor: Evo 6.0 $3,599 long shaft (79.4 lbs, 125A, 3-blade composite propeller, static thrust 279 lbs) 2. Gas motor: Tohatsu 9.8 HP MFS9.8BSPROEFUL $2,850 https://onlineoutboards.com/collections/tohatsu-9-8-hp-outboards 3. Battery: E175 9kw (175AH) LiFePO4 (Lithium Iron Phosphate) $4,399. This Epropulsion battery is required to enable the regeneration charging under sail feature. 4. 120v AC to 48V DC battery charger: Epropulsion AC battery charger (20A) $480. The 20A charger takes about 8 hours to recharge the battery but a 40A charger is available to cut that in half. 5. Evo Side Mount Throttle Control $499. 6. Two 00-0601-01 Communication cables 5m and one Y-type communication cable to connect motor, side mount controller and battery $90 each. 7. Epropulsion battery remote on/off switch $149. 8. Extra battery cables and fuses for your installation. 9. Charging 12v house bank from 48v motor battery: 20 Amp Victron Energy Orion-Tr 48/12-20A DC-DC Isolated Converter $118. https://www.solar-electric.com/victron-energy-orion-tr-48-12-20a-dc-dc-converter.html Solar Charging: 10. 48v Solar controller: 48V 300w boost MPPT for $31 each. We used two for two 200W panels: https://www.ebay.com/itm/314132016491 11. 12v solar controller: Victron Energy SmartSolar MPPT 100V 30 amp 12/24-Volt Solar Charge Controller (Bluetooth) $224 https://www.amazon.com/SmartSolar-MPPT-100-Charge-Controller/dp/B073ZJ3L13/ref=psdc_2236627011_t2_B075NPQHQK 12. Two transfer switches for solar charging 12v and 48v banks: Szliyands Universal Rotary Changeover Switch LW26-32, 32A, 3 Position, 8 Terminal $16 each. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088PHPHZC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00 We can be reached at atomvoyages.com or if you have a classic sailboat and want to share your experiences or have questions on fitting out, consider joining the Plastic Classic Forum at https://plasticclassicforum.com/forum/ I'm a moderator on the forum and answer questions there.

Preparing and applying antifouling, topsides and deck paint, interior paint, and installing the deck hardware on a Cape Dory 27 Sailboat. More info on preparing small sailboats for cruising and offshore passages can be found at atomvoyages.com. If you own an older sailboat you can post your experience and questions on the Plastic Classic Forum. I'm a moderator for it and answer questions there: https://plasticclassicforum.com/forum/

We install a Cape Horn Varuna windvane self-steering on a Cape Dory 27. More info: http://caphorn.com/en/welcome/

Installation Instructions for Tower in a Box Sail Arch: Our Cape Dory 36 deck dimensions fit the Offset Sail Arch model TIB101.5/02.5/435 which adjusts to fit 78” to 90” width bases forward; 68” to 80” aft. Refer to the following page for model sizes: https://www.atlantictowers.com/products_sail_arch.php 1. Measure your preferred height of arch and the width of four bases according to the planned location. The upper arch goes aft the backstay. Angle of legs from deck is 55-60 degrees. We decided on 6'2" headroom under the arch. Distance between forward and aft legs at deck is 24". Contact Atlantic Towers to confirm which model is suitable. Tell them size of solar panels you will use and order their solar mount kit or build your own. We used their kit with two 200 watt Renogy solar panels. The components weighed about 90 lbs plus about 10 lbs for the solar brackets and 52 lbs for the solar panels which we purchased separately. 2. Check overall width of arch after assembling it on the ground by inserting the two halves of the arch into the center connector, called the bridge. Mark the two sides of the tubes with tape 10" back from their ends so you know when they are fully inserted into the 20" wide bridge. Tape the bridge to tubes and measure width of bases. To get proper preload tension to stabilize the installed arch, add 3-5" to your original deck placement measurement. Tape on foot bases and deck mount brackets. Measure height of arch. Trim the bottom of the legs to required length using a heavy-duty tubing cutter, hacksaw or angle grinder. Disassemble and cut upper tubes to correct width. File cut edges so no burrs exist on tubes. 3. If certain of width measurement you can reassemble legs to the bridge and drill and bolt with 8 included fasteners or tape together. Attach a strap to lowest horizontal cross beam and tension until base width matches your deck position. Hoist arch onto boat with mainsail halyard over the stern. With pivoting eye fittings taped on to tubes and u-shaped base plates bolted to them, set arch into desired position, and confirm overall width and height. Check by eye that arch is perpendicular to boat centerline and use a level to check the top fore and aft and side to side. Level it by trimming base legs or by adding differing height spacer blocks under the feet. 4. Drill deck holes for 16 pieces 1/4" x 2" flat head stainless machine screws. Drill a 3/16" drain hole just above solid eye in the aft side of each tube for water drainage. Bolt tube eyes to bases and temporarily bolt bases to deck. 5. The instructions say to drill and tap tubes to eyes with included fasteners and epoxy together but we decided to drill for one 1/4" thru-bolt on each leg and install with sealant. For now just dry fit them and remove to add sealant or epoxy later. 6. On a flat surface, place two solar panels bottom up and align solar panel brackets flush with outside of solar panel frames, drill and install a 1/4" x 1.5" stainless hex bolt (not included) near each end where holes line up with existing holes in panel frame. Set panels on arch, align with boat centerline and leave space between panels for backstay clearance. Mark location on arch tubes then remove panels. Drill arch for four bolts that pass vertically all the way through the tubes so that bolts will align with solar panel frame. This is done by placing holes 1 1/8" in from outside of brackets and 7/8" from inside. The included 3/8" diameter bolts seemed larger than needed and were too short for our installation so we used 8 pieces 5/16" x 4.5" stainless hex bolts. 7. Drill 5/8" holes in aft arch tubes under where solar panels will be placed. Remove aft leg tube eyes and drill another 5/8" hole on the aft side of each aft leg about 3" from bottom of tubes. Remove burrs with file or Dremel drum disc. 8. Place solar panels on arch, clamp in place, and drill up from bottom through two sets of four holes in arch, drilling thru channel mounts and solar panel frames. (Use a piece of plywood between solar panel and frame to prevent damage from drill bit.) Bolt together with 1/4" bolts and washers. Place the included curved anodized aluminum washers under arch tube and use nylon washers between stainless fasteners and aluminum, including under the nuts on solar panel frame. You can add washers between arch and solar mount to level them. The number of spacer washers will determine if you need 4" or 4.5" bolts. 9. Tilt arch forward and remove aft tube eyes to ease installation of wires. Use a plumber's snake to run messenger line and pull solar cables through from top. Install cable clam on deck. Apply silicone sealant around wires where they pass through arch tubes to prevent chafe. 10. Bolt solar panels to arch. Seal deck bases bolts with butyl or other sealant and included backing plates.

We remove the diesel engine and build a custom outboard well locker in the enlarged lazarette to hold an ePropulsion Navy EVO 6.0 electric outboard motor. The electric motor can be swapped out for a Tohatsu 9.8HP gas motor if longer range is needed for extended trips up the east coast ICW or transiting the Panama Canal or as backup in case any of the components of the electric system fail when out cruising away from replacement parts. This system is not a comparable replacement for the ample propulsion of a large diesel engine. It is a low-powered, short-range alternative that requires a higher level of patience and seamanship skills. The 6kw electric outboard is advertised as 10hp gas equivalent but in case it doesn't live up to expectations or proves unreliable we have the gas outboard option. And since the electric motor's large 48 volt battery can directly charge the smaller 12 volt house battery, it provides enlarged battery capacity even when the gas motor is installed. We also converted from wheel steering to a simple tiller. We reversed the slope of the cockpit footwell so that it drains aft above the waterline, which eliminates two more seacocks. And we added 210 lbs of lead ballast to the bilge to compensate for loss of weight from the inboard diesel. People often ask me if a tilting outboard well is suitable for their particular boat. Unfortunately, the geometry of most boats won’t allow it. The boat needs to have a large lazarette locker, an overhanging transom, and certain minimum dimensions between the transom and the tiller head strap on top the rudder shaft. Or if you have wheel steering, suitable clearance between transom and emergency tiller. You can read more about my outboard well design at: https://atomvoyages.com/articles/the-improved-outboard-well/ Update: 12 July 2023 Here is the latest video showing the results of initial sea trials with both motors: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OVXGSDtYFhw

We install a compost toilet on a Cape Dory 27 sailboat. Space was too tight for a commercial compost toilet such as Airhead or Nature’s Head and we wanted something less complicated with no stirring mechanism. Parts: Lewmar hatch vent - $68 https://www.westmarine.com/lewmar-cabin-hatch-vent-trim-kit-P024_720_004_502.html Household toilet seat with no slam slow closing lid - $21 Noctua computer fan - $15 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VXTANZ4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title 1.25” fan vent hose Fan shroud (find or make two plastic or wood twist knobs to hold in place) - $38 https://airheadtoilet.com/product/extra-fan-shroud-right-angle/?v=7516fd43adaa Fan switch and wire https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D285PLL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title 1/4" x ½" foam weatherstrip to seal around fan in shroud Urine diverter - GBP 50 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324879529268 1 gal. urine bottle - $34 for 4-pack https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09VG146LW/ ½” plastic Thru-hull to drain urine diverter into urine bottle - $8 (Grind head to fit and seal with caulking) https://www.amazon.com/Perko-0328DP4-Thru-Hull-Marine-Connector/dp/B0000AZ6BX 5 gal bucket ½” marine plywood, 1x2 pine framing, mahogany or teak trim Almond Formica Hook, barrel bolt, and hinges for lid Elastic strap and 2 eye straps Sealant Epoxy resin, silica thickener Primer and paint Pine pellets or other compost material - $7 for 40lb bag https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/tractor-supply-pine-pellet-stall-bedding-40-lb Use: To use the bucket you can either line it with a plastic bag for disposal ashore or use no bag for dumping offshore. First load it with a few cups of dry compost material such as dry coconut fibers or the inexpensive horse bedding pine pellets from Tractor Supply. After each use you toss in another cup or two of pellets to help cover and absorb any moisture. But you don’t need to use very much because if the exhaust fan is left on there will not be any smell and it will dry out over time. The computer fan uses very little power so it should not be an issue to leave it on. If you don’t notice any odor then you could leave the fan off. The reason the common commercial compost toilets are so complicated and users often report there is no smell even without a fan is because they use more compost material and a stirring mechanism to buy the waste like in cat in a litter box. With the fan on there is no need to worry about all that. Here are sketches for building your own: https://plasticclassicforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=53428#p53428

This 1980 Cape Dory 36 was brought to us to assist the owner refitting the boat for offshore passage making. The extensive job list includes wheel to tiller conversion, diesel engine removal with added tilt-up outboard well with electric outboard motor propulsion, reducing the number of seacocks and electric pumps, adding a dry toilet, improved ground tackle, new plumbing, electrics, sails, rigging and much more. Regarding the outboard well modification which will be shown in a future episode: this design has been proven during over 20 years of design improvements and ocean crossings on many boats in the 28-32' range. The old diesel on this boat had to be rebuilt or replaced. The owner was initially inclined to sail engineless with just a sculling oar for the challenge and pleasure of the sport as well as the practicalities of becoming a better sailor, and not wanting the problems associated with a space-wasting, foul smelling, expensive diesel. He wanted to reduce potentially boat-sinking below waterline holes, including prop shaft and water intake, to have better access and storage to the interior, without risk of an inaccessible fouled prop or the drag associated with it under sail. He eventually decided on a compromise between diesel and sculling oar. My outboard well design will accommodate either a a 9.8hp gas Tohatsu SailPro or a 6kw ePropulsion Navy EVO 6.0 (supposedly 10hp equivalent) electric outboard with regeneration feature to recharge the 48v battery under sail. Our goal is to have an enclosed outboard motor installation that tilts up for drag-free and snag-free sailing, that will propel the boat at least 5 knots in calm water, and that has some ability to motor at lesser speed into moderate wind or light chop. If you need more performance then that then this is not right for you. My experience tells me there is no problem to acheive this with a 9.8hp gas motor. It should be the same result for the 6kw electric motor but will have to await sea trials to confirm. The gas motor is available as backup to the vulnerable electronics of the electric motor as well as a way to increase range if he decides to make a long inland cruise or transit the Panama Canal. While this is something of an experiment to see how well this sailor's skills and needs on such a large boat will match the limited propulsion available, this is going to be a huge improvement over a sculling oar no matter that it falls short of diesel performance. In any case, a larger gas motor would not fit in the lazarette space available. More info on my tilt-up outboard motor well and it's suitability for various boats is given in the following article: https://atomvoyages.com/articles/the-improved-outboard-well/ We can be reached at atomvoyages.com or if you have a classic sailboat and want to share your experiences or have questions on fitting out, consider joining the Plastic Classic Forum at https://plasticclassicforum.com/forum/ I'm a moderator on the forum and answer questions there.

We convert this Cape Dory 27 from inboard diesel engine to dual function outboard well that will hold either the Epropulsion Navy EVO 3.0 electric outboard or the Tohatsu 6hp Sailpro gas outboard. While we're at it we also replace the rotted core in the cockpit footwell. When the owner wants to make long coastal trips with frequent motoring he can use the gas motor. Otherwise he can swap it out for the electric motor which will be sufficient when he does not require more than 10-20 miles range (depending on boat speed). In practice we expect he can motor out of port, set sail, and if the boat speed under sail is close to 5 knots then he can recharge the battery using the motor prop for regeneration. If the battery is only partially depleted it could fully recharge on an overnight passage or it may take a couple days if fully discharged. Check the Cape Dory 27 playlist later for updates on the sea trials. Annapolis Hybrid Marine epropulsion dealer www.annapolishybridmarine.com Pros and cons of electric inboard vs electric outboard motor: With an electric inboard motor it may be difficult to find space for both motor and batteries without placing batteries in lockers that might be useful for other items, an inboard requires a higher sailing speed before regeneration kicks in, the prop and shaft is always exposed to fouling and damage and cause drag under sail at speeds too low for regen to begin and they are less efficient at transferring power from motor to prop. On the plus side, because it is lower and closer to the centerline, an inboard prop will not ventilate (lose thrust by sucking air from the surface) like an outboard can do in choppy waters. The electric outboard can be swapped out for a gas motor if you have a failure of the electronics or plan a long coastal or river trip that requires more range. Advantages of gas outboard over diesel inboard: 1. Less cost up front and for future maintenance. 2. Less weight and wasted space. 3. Reduced complexity, which makes for easier future motor replacement or repairs. You can take the motor to the repair shop instead of bringing a mechanic and all his tools to the boat. 4. There is no fixed prop to snag fish traps and nets under sail. 5. If the prop ever gets fouled or damaged you just tilt it up and clear it or replace it by reaching over the transom. 6. Sailing performance is noticeably improved by less drag and turbulence once you remove the inboard’s fixed prop and seal off the prop aperture between keel and rudder. The rudder will also become more efficient. 7. You have the ability to swivel motor for side thrust when entering a tight marina slip. 8. An outboard well puts an end to inevitable diesel fuel and oil spilled into the bilge and their odors. 9. The self-contained outboard motor eliminates two more holes below the waterline—no engine cooling water seacock and plumbing or prop shaft in a leaky stuffing box. 10. Because you no longer need to access a diesel exhaust and prop shaft and all the rest, you can now seal off all the cockpit lockers from the bilge, giving you the added safety of collision bulkheads and less chance of flooding. 11. There is no need for a separate engine starting battery and charging circuit. This also makes conversion from lead acid batteries to lithium. 12. The motor does not radiate unwanted heat into the boat all night when you try to sleep in the summer or in the tropics after motoring. 13. A smaller motor has a smaller environmental impact. 14. Even if your electrics go dead you can pull start an outboard motor. 15. Outboard motors have less power loss than inboards, meaning that a 9.8hp outboard is closer in actual thrust output to a 15hp inboard engine. 16. You will become a better sailor by taking more care not to get in a situation where you rely on the inboard engine when you could use the sails instead. The more limited range and thrust of a small outboard teaches you to become a better sailor. You will find that as your sailing skills and experience in passage planning increase, there will come a corresponding decrease in the horsepower you need. For more info on outboard well construction check: https://atomvoyages.com/articles/the-improved-outboard-well/ We can be reached at atomvoyages.com or if you have a classic sailboat and want to share your experiences or have questions on fitting out, consider joining the Plastic Classic Forum at https://plasticclassicforum.com/forum/ I'm a moderator on the forum and answer questions there. Video editing by Benjamin Whiting. Check out his Cape Dory 30 YT channel - Aboard The Flying Spur: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCkDmPXvuurvHtcVwUsyeTIg/videos

We set up and demonstrate the Takacat 260S inflatable dinghy and Epropulsion Spirit Plus 1kw Electric Outboard. Our top speed at full 1,000 watt output with one 180lb person in the dinghy was about 5 knots. That leaves only 1 hour 15 minutes run time but remarkably the motor will push the dinghy all day at about 2.5 knots using less than 100 watts. Somewhere in between those speeds you'll find the best combination of speed and range. Recharging the 48v battery with the standard supplied AC charger can take up to 7 hours and there is an optional fast charger available. Don't be surprised that the charger gets very hot to the touch which is normal. The owner plans to charge the battery when at anchor by plugging it into his 1500 watt DC to AC inverter powered off the boat's battery bank. There is also an optional 12v charger available and you can charge it from solar as well. Although not needed on a dinghy, there is a Spirit 1.0 EVO model available for small sailboats that has a regeneration feature to allow the outboard to recharge the battery under sail. The Takacat 260S dinghy is the smallest version available at 8'6" overall and 57lbs. The open transom and inflatable raised floor allow it to be lighter and stow more compact than standard inflatables. They also sell a popular 260LX model that has an open bow which makes it 3 lbs lighter but it will be a wetter ride in anything other than flat water. The Takacat 260S capacity is listed as 3 people / 793 lbs. But in calm waters I'm sure it can handle 4 people of average weight at the slow speeds an electric outboard will deliver. https://onlineoutboards.com/products/takacat-260-s-inflatable-catamaran https://www.epropulsion.com/spirit-1/ Purchased from Annapolis Hybrid Marine ePropulsion dealer https://www.annapolishybridmarine.com/ We can be reached at atomvoyages.com or if you have a classic sailboat and want to share your experiences or have questions on fitting out, consider joining the Plastic Classic Forum at https://plasticclassicforum.com/forum/ I'm a moderator on the forum and answer questions there. Video editing by Benjamin Whiting. Check out his Cape Dory 30 YT channel - Aboard The Flying Spur: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCkDmPXvuurvHtcVwUsyeTIg/videos

Continuing the refit of a Cape Dory 27 we discuss fiberglass hull liners, build a Divinycell foam board integral water tank into the V-berth hull and build a slide out base for a single burner Origo alcohol stove. For more details on constructing an integral water tank from Divinycell, see our other video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fnySnyNT1TI We can be reached at atomvoyages.com or if you have a classic sailboat and want to share your experiences or have questions on fitting out, consider joining the Plastic Classic Forum at https://plasticclassicforum.com/forum/ I'm a moderator on the forum and answer questions there. Video editing assisted by Benjamin Whiting. Check out his Cape Dory 30 channel at Aboard The Flying Spur: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCkDmPXvuurvHtcVwUsyeTIg/videos

We begin this Cape Dory 27 refit by sealing the leaky hull to deck joint, modify the chain locker and install the Lofrans Royal manual windlass and bow roller. We can be reached at atomvoyages.com or if you have a classic sailboat and want to share your experiences or have questions on fitting out, consider joining the Plastic Classic Forum at https://plasticclassicforum.com/forum/ I'm a moderator on the forum and answer questions there. Video editing assisted by Benjamin Whiting. Check out his Cape Dory 30 channel at Aboard The Flying Spur: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCkDmPXvuurvHtcVwUsyeTIg/videos

We begin an extensive refitting of another Cape Dory 27 sailboat. In part 1 we cover trailering the boat and engine removal in preparation for installing an ePropulsion Navy EVO 3.0 electric outboard motor in a custom tilt-up outboard well locker. We can be reached at atomvoyages.com or if you have a classic sailboat and want to share your experiences or have questions on fitting out, consider joining the Plastic Classic Forum at https://plasticclassicforum.com/forum/ I'm a moderator on the forum and answer questions there. Video editing assisted by Benjamin Whiting. Check out his Cape Dory 30 channel at Aboard The Flying Spur: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCkDmPXvuurvHtcVwUsyeTIg/videos

We sail a classic 1966 Alberg 30 on the 42 mile offshore route between St Simons Island, GA and St Marys, GA using the tides to advantage. Includes a discussion of tactics. We can be reached at atomvoyages.com or if you have a classic sailboat and want to share your experiences or have questions on fitting out, consider joining the Plastic Classic Forum at https://plasticclassicforum.com/forum/ I'm a moderator on the forum and answer questions there. Video editing assisted by Benjamin Whiting. Check out his Cape Dory 30 channel at Aboard The Flying Spur: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCkDmPXvuurvHtcVwUsyeTIg/videos

There are trade-offs and technical details to consider when upgrading from lead acid boat batteries such as AGM to Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePo or LFP). Although the energy density of LFP is less than some other lithium battery types, it has become the standard choice on boats because it is less expensive and much safer than other types. Advantages of LFP over lead acid is that they should last 2-4 times longer, can be charged faster, are half the weight, and will not self-discharge as quickly during long storage times. On the down side, good quality dependable LFP batteries cost more initially, have different charging protocols that require upgraded chargers and controllers, and you need to know how to restart them if they experience a low voltage shut down in a situation where they were overly discharged. LFP batterys have a built-in BMS (Battery Management System) that acts like a computer to regulate the current flows and safety features so there is always the remote possibility that they can be fried by a lightning strike and leave you without power. That can be mitigated by carrying a portable emergency power supply, or as is the case with most boats that have an inboard engine you can keep one AGM as the engine start battery and that will be your backup if the lithium bank fails. LFP also has the limitation of not being chargeable in below freezing conditions unless you have a way to heat the batteries or buy a self-heating type battery. But for sailors not wintering aboard up north that's not going to be an issue. Your inboard engine alternator will need protection from being damaged by a voltage spike if the LFP battery BMS disconnects for any reason. Your engine alternator needs to have the correct regulator to prevent burning out the alternator because the LFP battery accepts higher charge rate which overheats the alternator. You can either buy an expensive LFP compatible alternator regulator for the engine, or as we do here, keep the original alternator setup and protect it buy using an AGM for the engine start bank. https://www.sokbattery.com/ Epever MT50 programming for lithium batteries: Here's a link to my MT50 programming video. I don't know if Epever has fixed the software bug that I encountered when trying to program it but this is the method that worked for me. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=43KhqCEdP3A We can be reached at atomvoyages.com or if you have a classic sailboat and want to share your experiences or have questions on fitting out, consider joining the Plastic Classic Forum at https://plasticclassicforum.com/forum/ I'm a moderator on the forum and answer questions there.

This Albin Ballad 30 sailboat came with a quarterberth that was open to the cockpit locker so it frequently got wet. The adjacent seat and nav table were awkward to access. We decided to rip it all out and converted to a sealed cockpit locker with nav table countertop, moved the electrics to a new locker and added a locker for a portable freezer. We can be reached at atomvoyages.com or if you have a classic sailboat and want to share your experiences or have questions on fitting out, consider joining the Plastic Classic Forum at https://plasticclassicforum.com/forum/ I'm a moderator on the forum and answer questions there.