Zander birthday

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We were very fortunate to arrange for one of our friends to board another boat and film Esper under sail. Although the camera work is a little shakey in places (it was his first time using the cam) this still gives you a great idea of exactly what Esper looks like under sail: stunning. Just ignore the bad sail trim! [] www.followtheboat.com [] * tales from the high seas *

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We found a ghost spot. This legendary roti stall in Chiang Mai doesn't even exist on Google Maps. No pin, no reviews, just pure, buttery heaven. We’ve spent years traveling and tasting street food, but this specific roti in Chiang Mai just changed the game. Watching the rhythm of the dough, the sizzle of the pan, and that final, golden crunch... it’s not just street food; it’s a craft passed down through generations. Most people walk past these hidden gems, but the real soul of Thai flavors lives right here. Wait until the end to see the exact location so you don't miss it when you’re in the North. Would you try it with condensed milk or keep it classic? Let me know below! p.s. Because it’s a "hidden gem" in the truest sense, I’m pinning the exact coordinates in my upcoming "Live Full, Eat Slow" Chiang Mai Guide. Want early access to the map? Comment "SECRET" below and I’ll send you the waitlist link.

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1. Remove the old caulking. We use a special tool from @teakdeckingsystems. 2. If your deck is both screwed and glued, considwe removing the screws. We chose to remove the screws since they only created a possibility for water to enter the construction. 3. Fill out every screw hole with epoxy. During the renovation, we learned it would be a good idea to fill the holes with epoxy as soon as you remove the screws to ensure you seal every single hole. 4. Route between all the teak strips. We routed all the way to the gel coat to have as much wood to work with as possible. We used a fine cutter where the caulking was across the grain. 5. Seam sanding. It helps remove the remaining caulking and gives the teak a fresh bonding surface. 6. Masking the teak strips. We chose to mask the wood to reduce the sanding process later on because we knew the teak wasn’t very thick. 7. Cleaning off with acetone. This helps remove dust and gives the caulking the best conditions to adhere to the wood and cure. 8. Start caulking. We used an air compressor caulking gun. It makes the process easier for large surfaces that need caulking - we used SIS 440 from @teakdeckingsystems. We also used a 3D-printed applicator for the caulk head, which minimizes the amount of caulking used. I could only find it on @hfindustrimarineaps website. 9. “Spoon” caulk further into the seams. We used a flexible putty knife to smoothing the caulking. 10. Pull off the masking. While removing the tape, we used scissors to cut just before the area where it hadn’t been caulked yet. 11. Remove the top of the caulking. We used a sharp stanley knife. We did this to minimize sanding, just as we did with masking. 12. Sanding with grit 80. We used the fine cutter’s sanding head for all the edges and an orbital sander for the larger areas. Side note: Sanding with grit 40. We believe the best way is to sand before routing to even out the wood. Unfortunately, we had many places where the wood was so worn out that it wouldn’t have been possible to follow the old tracks with the router after sanding. #diy #sailing #sailingdiy #teak #teakdeck #sailingdenmark #boatwork #shortoftheday

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mehr dazu: Videolink https://youtu.be/IIYUeEHxmdI

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