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1. Remove the old caulking. We use a special tool from @teakdeckingsystems. 2. If your deck is both screwed and glued, considwe removing the screws. We chose to remove the screws since they only created a possibility for water to enter the construction. 3. Fill out every screw hole with epoxy. During the renovation, we learned it would be a good idea to fill the holes with epoxy as soon as you remove the screws to ensure you seal every single hole. 4. Route between all the teak strips. We routed all the way to the gel coat to have as much wood to work with as possible. We used a fine cutter where the caulking was across the grain. 5. Seam sanding. It helps remove the remaining caulking and gives the teak a fresh bonding surface. 6. Masking the teak strips. We chose to mask the wood to reduce the sanding process later on because we knew the teak wasn’t very thick. 7. Cleaning off with acetone. This helps remove dust and gives the caulking the best conditions to adhere to the wood and cure. 8. Start caulking. We used an air compressor caulking gun. It makes the process easier for large surfaces that need caulking - we used SIS 440 from @teakdeckingsystems. We also used a 3D-printed applicator for the caulk head, which minimizes the amount of caulking used. I could only find it on @hfindustrimarineaps website. 9. “Spoon” caulk further into the seams. We used a flexible putty knife to smoothing the caulking. 10. Pull off the masking. While removing the tape, we used scissors to cut just before the area where it hadn’t been caulked yet. 11. Remove the top of the caulking. We used a sharp stanley knife. We did this to minimize sanding, just as we did with masking. 12. Sanding with grit 80. We used the fine cutter’s sanding head for all the edges and an orbital sander for the larger areas. Side note: Sanding with grit 40. We believe the best way is to sand before routing to even out the wood. Unfortunately, we had many places where the wood was so worn out that it wouldn’t have been possible to follow the old tracks with the router after sanding. #diy #sailing #sailingdiy #teak #teakdeck #sailingdenmark #boatwork #shortoftheday

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Would you navigate the rugged Australian coastline or set a course for the remote islands of the South Pacific? Rate this yacht from 1–5 stars and comment below! Seawind 1260 © Seawind Catamarans Length overall: 12.45 m (40 ft 10 in) Beam: 6.80 m (22 ft 4 in) Draft: 1.16 m (3 ft 10 in) Displacement: 8,200 kg (18,078 lb) Engines: 2 x 29 hp to 40 hp diesel Fuel capacity: 480 L (127 US gal) Water capacity: 700 L (185 US gal) Sail area: 104 m² (1,119 sq ft) Cabins: 3–4 Berths: 6–8 persons The Seawind 1260 is widely regarded as one of the best-designed 40-foot cruising catamarans in the world, specifically engineered for blue water passages and live-aboard comfort. It features Seawind's legendary tri-fold door system, which seamlessly merges the saloon and cockpit into a massive, single-level living space protected by a permanent hardtop. The dual helm stations provide the skipper with 360-degree visibility while remaining under the protection of the roof, a vital feature for long-distance voyaging. Inside, the layout is functional and refined, featuring a "galley-up" or "galley-down" configuration that caters to different cruising styles. The high-performance hull design and protected rudders allow for spirited sailing performance and the ability to tuck into shallow anchorages. Known for its robust build and exceptional ventilation, the Seawind 1260 was named "Best Cruising Catamaran Under 50 Feet" by Cruising World Magazine, solidifying its reputation as a premier choice for serious sailors who refuse to compromise on safety or luxury. #Seawind1260 #SailingCatamaran #BlueWaterCruiser #HarbourMasters

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At Loftsails, we build for the long run — not the landfill. That’s why even our freeride sails are fully monofilm-free. More sessions, more seasons, more stoke. 💨🌊

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