-during our vacance 6-8-2010

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2009 Rinker 210 MTX. Características: Marca: Rinker Modelo: 210 MTX Año de construcción: 2009 Dimensiones: Eslora: 6,40 m Manga: 2,49 m Motorización: Marca: Volvo Penta Modelo: 4.3 GXI Potencia: 225 CV Horas de navegación: 97 h Electrónica: Medidor de profundidad digital. Indicadores con esferas enjoyadas y biseles de acero inoxidable. Luces de navegación. Electricidad: (1x) Batería de motor. Cargador de baterías. Bomba de achique eléctrica. Dirección eléctrica. Observaciones/Información adicional: Revisión completa de motores en junio de 2022. Instalación de bomba de alta de combustible. (Junio 2022) Sustitución manguera de desagüe y fuelles de las colas. (Junio 2022) Retén, cojinetes y aceite de transmisión sustituidos. (Junio 2022) Sustitución de latiguillos de trim, ánodos, retén y hélices. (Junio 2022) Insonorizante de sala de máquinas nuevo. (Junio 2022) Patente, lijado y pulido. (Junio 2022)

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3 Friends jump in a crusade to sail an inflatable sailing dinghy on the Skeleton coast and around various locations of Namibia. Follow us on Instagram and YouTube for the final Reveal

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Sometimes a boot can achieve a cult status of its own. The Dubarry Crosshaven boot was inspired by discussions with four top Volvo Ocean Race sailors and has led to a completely new range of clothing

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1. Remove the old caulking. We use a special tool from @teakdeckingsystems. 2. If your deck is both screwed and glued, considwe removing the screws. We chose to remove the screws since they only created a possibility for water to enter the construction. 3. Fill out every screw hole with epoxy. During the renovation, we learned it would be a good idea to fill the holes with epoxy as soon as you remove the screws to ensure you seal every single hole. 4. Route between all the teak strips. We routed all the way to the gel coat to have as much wood to work with as possible. We used a fine cutter where the caulking was across the grain. 5. Seam sanding. It helps remove the remaining caulking and gives the teak a fresh bonding surface. 6. Masking the teak strips. We chose to mask the wood to reduce the sanding process later on because we knew the teak wasn’t very thick. 7. Cleaning off with acetone. This helps remove dust and gives the caulking the best conditions to adhere to the wood and cure. 8. Start caulking. We used an air compressor caulking gun. It makes the process easier for large surfaces that need caulking - we used SIS 440 from @teakdeckingsystems. We also used a 3D-printed applicator for the caulk head, which minimizes the amount of caulking used. I could only find it on @hfindustrimarineaps website. 9. “Spoon” caulk further into the seams. We used a flexible putty knife to smoothing the caulking. 10. Pull off the masking. While removing the tape, we used scissors to cut just before the area where it hadn’t been caulked yet. 11. Remove the top of the caulking. We used a sharp stanley knife. We did this to minimize sanding, just as we did with masking. 12. Sanding with grit 80. We used the fine cutter’s sanding head for all the edges and an orbital sander for the larger areas. Side note: Sanding with grit 40. We believe the best way is to sand before routing to even out the wood. Unfortunately, we had many places where the wood was so worn out that it wouldn’t have been possible to follow the old tracks with the router after sanding. #diy #sailing #sailingdiy #teak #teakdeck #sailingdenmark #boatwork #shortoftheday

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