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Checking the fuel injection timeing as stated in the manual. De-compress the engine and crank it manual. The timeing mark is behind the startengine. The sound in the video is not the right one, it should be shorter to be the injection sound. Mobile camera can be helpful, it register the sound and you can see the mark on the flywheel on the video. In later manuals an other method is adviced. Dis-connect the pressure pipe from the injector. Arrange the pipe so the end comes horisontal. Turn the engine slowly and look for when the diesel suface start to rise. Stop the turning and look for the timing mark on the flywheel. Something is wrong with my injection pump, so I got non of the methods to work out perfect. With the new injection pump the engine have great difficulty to start. With the old the engine starts instantly, but it leaks diesel to the engine oil. But I have clear indications that the injection timing is right.

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Edited by YouCut:https://youcutapp.page.link/BestEditor

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Sono davvero onorato di essere il primo ospite dei podcast di The Sea Republic. Parliamo di mare, avventura, sostenibilità e futuro del pianeta su youtube.com/@thesearepublic

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Matt Miller sailing a Hobie Wave on a sweet reach across North Sound during the Hobie family fun week at the Bitter End Yacht Club, Virgin Gorda, BVI. November 2010

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Mast raising without a crane sounds a daunting prospect but it is actually very straightforward if you prepare properly. Some years ago I wrote an article which you can see here, https://www.sailingcatamarans.com/index.php/articles/11-technical-articles/268-safe-mast-lowering-method so this is really just an update. This video shows my Chat 18, which has a mast from a beach cat, and thus one that could be pushed up by hand, but here I show the system that works on any size mast - the biggest I have raised this way was on a 50ft ketch. The key features are a good tabernacle, a "gin pole" - in this case the boom - and most important, the use of temporary shrouds thus ensuring that the mast cannot fall sideways. These shrouds must have "chainplates" that line up exactly with the tabernacle pivot bolt. When down the mast rests on a, eg, dinghy trailer mast support at the back of the cockpit. If you regularly raise you mast you can fit a trailer roller to the bracket, so it's easy to push the mast to and fro for trailering. The "gooseneck" for the ginpole is a shroud adjuster from my junk box, suitably bent and screwed to the front of the mast. Roller reefing gear has to be kept straight and has a tendency to catch on the cabin roof etc. So I always lash it to the ginpole in about the right position. The "chainplates" for the temporary shrouds are, again, from my junk box and are 25mm OD aluminium tubes that clip into place and are easily removed. They also take guywires from the forward end of the ginpole to stop that falling over. I attached the spi halyard to the ginpole, but you can just rely on the forestay/furling gear. The mast is then raised up using the mainsheet shackled to the forestay chainplate (you may need a longer rope, depending on your boat). 4:1 is easy on small boats, on bigger boats lead it back to a winch. Of course the most load is when the mast is horizontal, you often have to push on the mast when lowering to get it to start moving. So if you can get it off the support you know you can hoist it all the way. So it all seems a lot of ropes and preparation but it's all worth it as the mast cannot fall and you always have total control, even in a cross wind. And you can usually raise the mast singlehanded. If you are only occasionally raising/lowering the mast then the temporary stays can be rope. Make a loop in the end and pass it over the spreaders and round the mast using a boathook or, on bigger boats, a bosun's chair. Easy to pull off again afterwards. Before sailing always check the mast with binoculars or camera to ensure there are no twisted shackles or, especially, T bar terminals (which is why I don't recommend T bars on trailable boats.) Use tape or elastic band to hold the stays in the correct position while hoisting - both will break away as the shrouds tighten.

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