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Scanboat has been online since 1997 when we started as boat4you.dk and now 5.2 million annual visits, looking at 26 million pages Scanboat has achieved its position by developing the site for the benefit of buyers and sellers, but not least also by adapting to the requirements google makes to want to make web pages visible in their search. Therefore, scanboat today has a broad and very strong position as an advertising platform for used and new boats, both among users and google. As info, Google does not show ads from social media while that up to 50% of the traffic on targeted marketplaces, just comes through google. Social marketplaces can be equated with putting "for sale" signs on the boat only when the boat is out sailing while advertising on scanboat and other marketplaces that focus on buying and selling, is equivalent to you also have the sign on when your boat is lying still and quiet and people come by, by themselves. Hope it made sense and from scanboat to all of you, lots of success in getting your boat sold or finding your dream boat. If it is out there… then it can definitely also be found on scanboat. https://scanboat.com/en/boat-market/boats

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1. Remove the old caulking. We use a special tool from @teakdeckingsystems. 2. If your deck is both screwed and glued, considwe removing the screws. We chose to remove the screws since they only created a possibility for water to enter the construction. 3. Fill out every screw hole with epoxy. During the renovation, we learned it would be a good idea to fill the holes with epoxy as soon as you remove the screws to ensure you seal every single hole. 4. Route between all the teak strips. We routed all the way to the gel coat to have as much wood to work with as possible. We used a fine cutter where the caulking was across the grain. 5. Seam sanding. It helps remove the remaining caulking and gives the teak a fresh bonding surface. 6. Masking the teak strips. We chose to mask the wood to reduce the sanding process later on because we knew the teak wasn’t very thick. 7. Cleaning off with acetone. This helps remove dust and gives the caulking the best conditions to adhere to the wood and cure. 8. Start caulking. We used an air compressor caulking gun. It makes the process easier for large surfaces that need caulking - we used SIS 440 from @teakdeckingsystems. We also used a 3D-printed applicator for the caulk head, which minimizes the amount of caulking used. I could only find it on @hfindustrimarineaps website. 9. “Spoon” caulk further into the seams. We used a flexible putty knife to smoothing the caulking. 10. Pull off the masking. While removing the tape, we used scissors to cut just before the area where it hadn’t been caulked yet. 11. Remove the top of the caulking. We used a sharp stanley knife. We did this to minimize sanding, just as we did with masking. 12. Sanding with grit 80. We used the fine cutter’s sanding head for all the edges and an orbital sander for the larger areas. Side note: Sanding with grit 40. We believe the best way is to sand before routing to even out the wood. Unfortunately, we had many places where the wood was so worn out that it wouldn’t have been possible to follow the old tracks with the router after sanding. #diy #sailing #sailingdiy #teak #teakdeck #sailingdenmark #boatwork #shortoftheday

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Landgang ist angesagt - wir gehen zum Pre-Einkaufscheck in die Stadt.

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