Ups and downs in paradise. Sailing alone across the Pacific Ocean. French Polynesia

In the middle of the Pacific: Intact islands, stunning landscapes. The best places I have seen so far. I sail alone. Reykja is a 35-year-old steel ketch. I meet friendly people, search for weathered tikis, marvel at enigmatic fish and screeching birds. And learn how to navigate the atoll: strong currents in the passes, nasty coral reefs in the unmapped lagoon. My route: From Hiva Oa in the Marquesan archipelago to Tahiti, Fakrarava and Tikehau in the Tuamotu archipelago